Venice - Italy - page 299

Make Mine a Double
If, like me, you need a stiff espresso to get you going in the morning,
you'll be interested to know that in 1763, Venice already had over 200 cof-
fee shops. Coffee first became known in Venice in the 1600s, when it was
served as a type of medicine. The first “cafe,” where coffee was served
recreationally, opened in 1683, somewhere in the vicinity of the famous
Caffè Florian, and it seems that the popularity of sipping the bitter liquid
has never quite diminished. In the 19th century, Adolphus Trollope noted
that the caffè played a greater part in Venetian life than in any other city.
He further remarked that this was the only city in Italy where female
aristocrats frequented the caffè. Originally called “Venice Triumphant,”
Florian was opened in 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, and immediately
earned a powerful reputation that has kept it at the center of fashionable
Venetian life ever since.
Getting your caffeine fix at either Caffè Florian or its archrival, Gran
Caffè Quadri, can be expensive; you're looking at paying around € 7 for a
cappuccino. If you have the dough, feel free to grab a table, but know that
you're really paying to join the ranks of famous and notable people who've
whiled away their afternoons here. If it's simply a pick-me-up you're after,
follow my lead and head to Caffè Aurora (right next door to Florian),
being sure to stand at the bar counter while you order and drink your bev-
erage (a shot of espresso is an acceptable € .80). I've stood at that
counter with gondoliers, local policemen, and even lower-paid workers
who've popped into the piazza to see what the tourists are up to, but cer-
tainly aren't keen on courting bankruptcy.
Most of Venice's more affordable cafes are far removed from the tourist
chaos of St. Mark's. A favorite stop-off of mine is Caffè Costa Rica
( % 041-716371), dedicated to rich and rewarding coffee beans; here the
air is fragrant with coffee that's been brewing at this spot since 1930, and
most of the clientele is from the neighborhood. You'll find the small cafe
along Cannaregio's busy market-centered Rio Terrà San Leonardo, not far
from the Ponte Guglie. Sidle up to the orange linoleum counter where rows
of cups on saucers let you know that your hosts mean business; you sip
(or down) your double espresso surrounded by sacks of beans imported
from (among other bean-growing nations) Costa Rica. All the while, locals
drift in to adjust their own caffeine levels, stopping for a spirited conver-
sation with the friendly staff. You can also buy coffee beans, which you'll
pay for by weight.

€

( 5.50). The fried artichokes are particularly good, and every meal should be fol-

lowed by a stiff shot of Israeli grappa. Seafood dishes will set you back € 13 to € 17,
which makes this a good value option. On Friday evenings, a Shabbat service is
held, followed by a special meal, offering an opportunity to mingle with local Jews.