Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
another on parallel-running Calle Do Mori), and immediately feel working-class
tradition hanging in the air, just like the copper pots dangling from the ceiling;
there's plenty of history here, including bar licenses from the 17th century. Note
that just because you're snacking, you needn't be caught off guard when it comes
to racking up a hefty bill; I recently had seven (or perhaps eight)
cicchetti
items (I
really couldn't help myself ), and at around
€
1.50 a piece, I could just as easily
have enjoyed a large plate of pasta at a sit-down trattoria.
€
Having run a restaurant in her native Paris for 15 years, Maria Lacombe came
to Venice several years ago to be in the city she adores; she decided to carry on
doing what she does best, and established
Osteria Alba Nova
5
(Lista Vecchia dei
Bari, Santa Croce 1252;
%
041-5241353; Mon-Sat 9am-11pm),
a small, family-
run eatery far off the beaten track. It's all very unassuming; dishes are chalked up
on the board, but at lunchtime you can get any
primo
dish plus a glass of wine
and coffee for
€
6.60; for
€
2 more, you'll get a
secondo
dish instead. Maria also
prepares some really extravagant-sounding dishes made from ancient recipes that
you won't find anywhere else; only available in winter are her pasta with crab and
strawberry sauce, or—even more decadent—pasta with chocolate and mixed
seafood sauce. Portions are generous and filling, and well worth the detour.
€
-
€€
Walking through San Polo's crowds of tourists, I once came upon
Osteria Cantina do Spade
(Calle Do Spade, San Polo 860;
%
041-5210574;
www.dospadevenezia.it; 9am-3pm and 5-11pm).
I was desperate for a really
wholesome meal, and quite unaware of the fact that this homey cantina is
renowned for hosting Casanova, who apparently enjoyed some lively parties here.
The interior of this ancient place is divided into various alcoves and dining rooms,
and comfortably crammed full of all manner of decoration, from Burano lace over
the
cicchetti
display, to plastic kitsch novelties along the walls. Seated at a long
table, you'll be served by a cheerful, upbeat pair of Venetians who, despite their
years, are full of vitality; at one point, you may get an arm around your shoulder,
and without understanding your English, the manager will know you are enjoying
his pasta immensely. Cuisine is real Venetian, so expect to find a full range of local
specialties like cuttlefish in ink sauce, and
baccalà fagioli.
If you're keen on a range
of tastes, ask for the mixed
cicchetti,
a huge serving for
€
10.
Primi
courses cost a
perfectly acceptable
5
€
7 to
€
14, while
secondi
are quite reasonable at
€
12 to
€
19.
5
9
€
-
€€
With Sting's melancholic strains often setting the mood,
La Zucca
(Santa Croce 1762;
%
041-5241570; www.lazucca.it; Mon-Sat 12:30-2:30pm and
7-10:30pm)
is an understandably popular venue of casual ambience and whole-
some food. The menu adapts to the whims of the kitchen. There are new dishes
every day, but there's a careful nod to the health-conscious, and vegetarians are
particularly well looked after. If you turn up in summer, you probably won't get
a seat outside (or anywhere for that matter); you may have to return twice before
finally getting an unreserved table at lunch. This is a good place to patronize if
you're tired of Venetian fish dishes, or really feel in the mood for a fresh salad
(chicken and avocado, or
caprese
made with freshly shaved buffalo mozzarella).
Casual and child-friendly, La Zucca buzzes at night and serves up simple, nour-
ishing fare such as lasagna with zucchini and almonds, pumpkin flan, and even
