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space) and you'll instantly note that the faux-antique look is in full force here,
with rooms done out in green and sunflower yellow. Definitely reserve the one
room on the top floor with a private terrace. Falier has a pleasant atmosphere and
the helpful staff go out of their way to please; the owners have also worked dili-
gently to keep things neat and clean. It's also well situated, near the Frari church
and the Scuole Grand San Rocco. Note, however, that while the starting rate for
a double room is
90, it's certainly not worth forking out the top price of
210,
so check the website for special deals.
A Bed & Breakfast Gem
€€ - €€€€
Tucked into one of those few parts of the city that really feel undis-
covered by the crowds, Ca' San Giorgio
55
(Salizzada del Fontego dei Turchi,
Santa Croce 1725; % 041-2759177; www.casangiorgio.com) is a real find in a
recently restored 18th-century building. Although it's way off the beaten track, it's
just short steps from the Grand Canal, and within easy reach of the Riva de Biasio
vaporetto stop. Guest rooms here are luxurious, spacious, and special, benefiting
immensely from a contemporary makeover. With classy Venetian styling and such
thoughtful modern conveniences as flatscreen televisions, wireless Internet, and
hi-fi systems, the look is fresh and inspired. Bathrooms? They're tiled, with good
showers. The best accommodations have their own terraces and are more expen-
sive (you pay according to size); expect to pay anywhere between
200
per night for a double room, depending on the season. If you're traveling alone,
this is a real treat, with single use of a double room from
90 and
60. Search the website
for spectacular specials during quieter months; I once found a weekday special of
80 for a double in April.
A Hostel
It may sound overbearingly institutional, but the Domus Civica (Campiello
Chiovere, San Polo 3082; % /fax 041-5227139; www.domuscivica.com) is not a
bad option at all; it's a great value, and just a few minutes' walk from both the
train and bus stations. Also not far from the Frari church, this seasonal hostel
operates from June through September in a gorgeous centuries-old building with
spiraling staircase and ancient central elevator. You can get a single room (
29),
or share a bed in a double or triple room ( 26 per person); these all have metal
cots, a desk, bookshelf, and cupboard, with shuttered windows overlooking the
campiello below. Some rooms even have small balconies. Bathroom facilities are
shared but clean, with individual shower cubicles. There's no lockout during the
day (but you'll have to observe a 12:30am curfew), and there's free Internet access,
a TV lounge, a room to store your luggage, and two cafes right outside, either for
people-watching or an affordable meal.
ACCOMMODATIONS ON GIUDECCA
Steadily, the island of Giudecca is drawing Venetians who wish to be out of
the web of tourists in Venice proper. Elton John has a house on the island, and
rumor has it that Madonna is also looking to purchase property here. But a good
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