Travel Reference
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single travelers can't book); if you want a private room or apartment, you'll most
likely be subjected to a 2-night minimum stay. One downside: Check-in times are
limited; don't arrive before 9am or after 8pm, or between 1 and 6pm. On
Sundays, reception closes at 1pm.
ACCOMMODATIONS IN SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE
Santa Croce and San Polo are central and relatively close to Piazzale Roma, mak-
ing accommodations here particularly convenient if you're arriving by bus or car.
€€
For absolute bottom-of-the-barrel room rates in this area, there's no place
much cheaper than Albergo Casa Peron (Salizzada San Pantalon, Santa Croce 85;
% 045-710021; www.casaperon.com), which has clean, spartan bedrooms with
private bathroom for under 100 in peak season. The main problem here may be
the quality of the mattress, but the backache won't hurt your budget. The hotel
has a somewhat ramshackle feel, with tawdry lace wall-hangings in the lobby, and
you might find the live-in house parrot sleeping on the office door, but such
oddities—surprisingly—add character.
€€ - €€€ Hotel Locanda Salieri (Fondamenta Minotto, Santa Croce 160;
% 041-710035; www.hotelsalieri.com) is a refurbished one-star property which
may have two-star prices by the time you read this guide. Situated on the lovely
Rio del Gaffaro, a canal-side promenade, the hotel offers a choice of views from
otherwise ordinary, smallish modern rooms. Units overlooking the Gaffaro Canal
are slightly more expensive, while those looking onto the garden at the back are
considerably quieter. The new rates start at
70 for a double room in the low sea-
son, and reach as high as 140 during peak periods; but keep an eye out for spe-
cials on the regularly updated website. The hotel is right next door to Ristorante
Ribò, a pricey but classy Michelin-rated restaurant with a garden, which is where
Salieri's guests enjoy breakfast.
5
(Campo S. Agostin, San Polo 2344; % 041-2759414; www.locandasantagostin.
com), you'll usually hear the strains of Vivaldi's Four Seasons, which seems perma-
nently featured in the spacious lobby. Occupying the first floor of a recently
restored 16th-century palazzo, right next to the university, this quiet (Vivaldi
notwithstanding), relatively new hotel exudes a welcoming but restrained atmos-
phere. With wooden floors and antique styling, guest rooms are fairly smart and
comfortably proportioned; bedrooms have small, immaculately clean marble
bathrooms. I love the way the windows admit so much light on bright days, and
I love the rooms that have their own tiny terraces. Besides all the standard ameni-
ties, there's in-room Internet access. Sant' Agostin is close to the Frari Church. Its
location also makes for easy nighttime excursions into Dorsoduro. A double costs
90 in low season, rising to 120 in midseason, and as much as 178 during
peak periods; weekends may be more expensive.
€€ - €€€€
Venturing up the carpeted, marble stairway toward Sant' Agostin
€€ - €€€€ Another low-key charmer, not too far from the station, is Hotel
Falier (Salizzada San Pantalon, Santa Croce 130; % 041-710882; www.hotelfalier.
com), which also has a small enclosed garden. Guest rooms are somewhat clut-
tered (the bed, tiny cupboard, and small writing desk taking up nearly all the
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