Venice - Italy - page 287

€€ - €€€€

Here's a really special option occupying a restored 16th-century
palace, just 3 minutes from St. Mark's Square. Hotel Casa Verardo—Residenza
d'Epoca (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, Castello 4765; % 041-5286138 or

041-5286127; www.casaverardo.it) is a rare combination of good taste, spacious-
ness, and excellent rates (a “classic” double goes for

55

220). It's not exactly
budget, but you could score a last minute deal, paying considerably less than the
seasonal rate (check the hotel's website for “last minute” offers). Owners Daniela
and Francesco acquired the property in 2000, and since then have been hard at
work transforming it into a romantic combination of historic ambience and
understated luxury, offering a touch of class and sophistication that you won't find
elsewhere at this price. Each room is done in a different color; expect good-quality
furniture, Murano chandeliers, and stucco wall pieces. Some ceilings feature bits
of original frescoes. My favorite space here is the large, sun-drenched terrace over-
looking the canal, where long, casual breakfasts are a great way to start the day in
summer; there's also a gorgeous courtyard.

€

90-

€

A surprisingly good value in the heart of Castello is Locanda SS. Giovanni

€€€

(Barbaria de le Tole, Castello 6401; % 041-5222767; www.locandass
giovannipaolo.it), a relatively new hotel situated a short distance from the popu-
lar church and campo of the same name. Breakfast is served in your room, and is
included in the relatively reasonable rate (you'll pay € 120- € 135 for a double
room during the high season). The air-conditioned guest rooms are clean and well
kept, and are done in typical faux-antique Venetian style, with pale shades and
white walls.

5

e Paolo

€€€ - €€€€ Looking onto a wide, open square and facing the San Zaccaria
church, Villa Igea

(Campo San Zaccaria, Castello 4684; % 041-2410956;
[e-mail]) makes you think you're in the lap of luxury with-
out feeling the sting in your wallet. This plush hotel has recently received a thor-
ough makeover, retaining the Venetian antique styling against pleasant pastels.
When I last visited, breakfasts were being served at the Igea's upmarket sister
establishment, Savoia e Jolanda, right on the Riva degli Schiavoni. With breakfast
included, you can expect to pay between

5

€

144 and

€

218 for a standard double

room, and just € 20 more for a superior room.
Castello's Popular Hostel
€ - €€

Protestant-run Foresteria Valdese (Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa,
Castello 5170; % 041-5286797; www.diaconiavaldese.org/venezia) is another
cheap place to park your backpack. Accommodations occupy the recently reno-
vated 16th-century Palazzo Cavagnis, which still has some 18th-century frescoes
(these “historical” rooms cost a bit more). Take your pick of a few double rooms
( € 57 without bathroom; € 75 with bathroom), a bed in a dorm ( € 22 per bed), a
family-size room (

104 for four people with a private bathroom), or a mini-
apartment that sleeps four or five people ( € 104- € 116). Unless you're in an apart-
ment, a simple breakfast is included. Things are a tad spartan, but if you keep in
mind that this is a church-affiliated budget establishment for pilgrims, you'll find
that the welcoming atmosphere, canal-side balconies, and excellent rates more
than make up for any lack of sophistication. Note that Valdese is quite popular
and often fully booked by groups, so reserve well in advance (the Catch-22 is that

€