Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
night at Hotel Messner (Fondamenta Ca' Balà, Dorsoduro 216-217; % 041-
5227443; www.hotelmessner.it), which offers three tiers of accommodations: The
cheapest are heavy on linoleum but comfortable (and cost a reasonable
115 per
double), while midrange options border on budget-plush (with an uptick in price
of
30).
€€ - €€€€ Call me sentimental, but there's something of the aura of writer
John Ruskin that still hangs in the air at Pensione La Calcina (Zattere, Dorsoduro
780; % 041-5206466; www.lacalcina.com), a classic Venetian hotel owned and
run by Debora and Alesandro Szemere. A typewriter displayed on the stairway is
a reminder that the famous Ruskin wrote most of his novel, The Stones of Venice,
in room 2, a lovely corner unit looking onto the Giudecca Canal; it's spacious,
with parquet flooring, a Murano chandelier, and a good-size bathroom. These
days, most of the rooms (recently refurbished, but retaining a sense of tradition)
have something special to offer, but those with views toward Giudecca's Redentore
church are the most popular; the price of a double with bathroom ranges from
99 to 186, varying according to season and view. I once stayed in what is
almost certainly the smallest room in Venice (a single unit about the size of a bath-
room at the Cipriani), but even this had a tiny balcony overlooking rooftops, the
adjacent canal, and the lagoon (single rooms cost
75 without bathroom;
or 75- 106 en suite, with or without a view). There's a lovely rooftop terrace,
and the restaurant, La Piscina, which floats on the Giudecca Canal, is a very spe-
cial breakfast spot. The Szemeres also rent apartments in a block near the hotel;
these are immaculate and average around
55-
200 per night.
5
(San Vio, Accademia 628; % 041-5204733; www.hotelamerican.com), primarily
because I'm a sucker for friendly, welcoming service. From the very helpful porter
to the useful recommendations made by the desk clerk, everybody here makes a
concerted effort. Accommodations occupy two adjoining buildings facing a small
canal. It's ideal for art-lovers; not only is it close to Venice's two best galleries, but
the walls are crammed with all manner of paintings, giving the public spaces the
feel of someone's home. Guest rooms are neat and functional, with patterned silk-
covered walls, reproduction antiques, and gold-lacquered fittings; the automatic
blinds over the windows ensure complete blackout and are good for noise control.
Bathrooms are cramped, in the manner of most Venetian hotels. Rooms 102 and
101 have lively views; the latter is more spacious than many of the other units.
Double rooms start at 90 in low season, but soar to 260 over peak periods;
expect to pay even more if you want a view.
€€ - €€€€
I really enjoyed my recent stay at Hotel American-Dinesen
€€€ - €€€€ Hotel gardens are scarce in Venice, and few are as pretty as the
leafy grounds at Pensione Accademia Villa Maravege
5
(Fondamenta Bollani,
Dorsoduro 1058; % 041-5210188; www.pensioneaccademia.it). This 17th-century
villa was formerly occupied by the Russian Embassy and now has a distinctive, ele-
gant feel, enhanced by Victorian relics and no-nonsense antique styling. Operating
since the 1950s, and last refurbished in 2003, the pensione has an atmosphere of
sophistication; staff members try to maintain a purse-lipped composure for a posh
clientele, but a social and congenial breakfast in the garden overcomes any such
Search WWH ::




Custom Search