Venice - Italy - page 279

exposed beam ceilings, and an air of recent renovation help keep spirits up (the
decor here is modern rather than antique Venetian). Some top-floor rooms have
views of the Basilica (ask for room 6, if it's available, for a particularly spectacular
view). Your biggest concerns here will be the steep stairways (no elevator) and
cramped rooms (not unusual for Venice), although rooms on the lowest (second)
floor are slightly more spacious. Doubles with bathroom are € 80 to € 135, with-
out bathroom

€

60 to

€

90.

€€ - €€€€ Campo San Stefano is wonderfully located, within easy walking
distance of both Piazza San Marco and the Accademia. This is where you'll find
Locanda Art Déco (Calle delle Botteghe, San Marco 2966; % 041-2770558;

www.locandaartdeco.com), with ordinary rooms that stand out thanks to their
complete lack of faux-antique styling so typical of Venice's moderately priced
hotels. Decor and furnishings are minimalist, and bathrooms quite small, but the
rooms are immaculate, with spectacularly comfortable orthopedic mattresses, as
insisted on by the hotel's charming French proprietor, Judith. You can connect to
the Internet in your room, and take breakfast on the tiny midfloor landing, while
the friendly receptionist is eager to provide advice on dining and nightlife. Double
rooms start at € 75 per night, including a simple continental breakfast, but you
may pay as much as

5

190 during peak periods. It's a good idea to check the hotel's
website for a discounted rate; there are regular package deals for stays of 2 days or
more. A bonus here: You can order a private in-room massage at a reasonable rate.

€

€€€ Also near Campo San Stefano, on a quiet campiello, is Locanda Fiorita
(Campiello Novo, San Marco 3457; % 041-5234754; www.locandafiorita.com),
which occupies a salmon-colored building topped by a profusion of chimneys.
White garden chairs are clustered around the entrance, which is easily mistaken
for the entrance to someone's private home. You arrive in a small, neat lobby with
timbered ceilings and mountains of brochures; there are only 10 rooms, and
things are very low-key. Guest rooms are pleasant, not too tiny (room 8 is a good
twin), with standard antique styling and the usual amenities; mattresses are firm,
and the bathrooms small and tiled. You'll find towels on the bed and windows
looking onto a neighborhood side street; rooms 1 and 10 have tiny private ter-
races overlooking the square. Doubles here go for no more than € 145 with pri-
vate bathroom; 110 without, but you'll pay much less than this out of peak

season; breakfast is included. Ca' Morosini-Dependance (Calle San Stefano, San
Marco 3465; % 041-2413800; www.camorosini.com) is the Fiorita's more expen-
sive annex, where double en suite rooms cost € 180.

€

55
(www.bauerhotels.com), with its vast Soviet-style lobby, beautiful guest rooms,
tradition of hosting international celebrities, and award-winning restaurant.
Because it's strictly for the well-heeled, I mention the Bauer simply as a reference:
Right next door is the far less ostentatious, but far more affordable, Violino d'Oro
(Campiello Barozzi, San Marco 2091; % 041-2770841; www.violinodoro.com),
occupying the Palazzo Barozzi. Small and smart, rates here are quite flexible: There
are times when you'll pay as little as € 80 for a double room, if you're able to score
a last-minute booking (although this is more likely to be

€€ - €€€€

One of Venice's most fabulous and fabled hotels is the Bauer

190). Be aware that this
hotel charges more for early reservations, so planning a stay here too far in advance

€