Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
7
Venice
Though threatened by the ravages of time and
tourism, Venezia continues to enthrall its visitors.
by Keith Bain
V ENICE WAS ONCE THE RULER OF A GIANT MARITIME AREA , A VIRTUAL
empire whose army and navy dominated what is today Turkey, the Greek Isles,
and Crete (as well as the inland areas of Italy that immediately surround the city).
And as befits that position, it created palazzi and churches as grand and impres-
sive as any in the world. The military, commercial, and political power of Venice
have long since vanished, but its artistic impact is undiminished. Its monuments,
its facades, its paintings and sculpture, its graceful docks and mooring poles, its
fanciful gondolas—all reach across the ages and never fail to enchant.
The city is a testament to human creativity. As you wander the streets that no
motor vehicle has ever seen, you encounter genius at every turn. Titian, Tiepolo,
Tintoretto, and Bellini are among the painters whose frescoes and canvases fill
churches and museum galleries. Vivaldi's Four Seasons stirs hearts at church
recitals and in hotel lobbies. The designs of Palladio and Longhena grace the
waterfronts. Even the contemporary, mostly foreign art collection assembled by
Peggy Guggenheim seems perfectly at home here.
Sadly, the city faces many dangers. Its squares flood nearly every year, and its
buildings are deteriorating under the weight of time. The city's very uniqueness
makes it an expensive, difficult place to live. Everything takes longer to get done,
and even the simplest items—like bread—seem overpriced. The city's population
has dropped as low as 70,000, and the average resident is on the brink of retire-
ment.
Venice is sinking into the sea, but Italy, and the world, will never permit Venice
to disappear. People have always written about it, painted it, photographed it. For
as long as Venice remains afloat, people will continue to be seduced by La
Serenissima.
DON'T LEAVE VENICE WITHOUT . . .
GETTING LOST Venture deeper into the maze of streets and canals. So sub-
lime is Venice's lineup of architectural eye-candy that the city simply forces one to
venture forth. And believe me, if you stick to the areas thick with tourists, you'll
never discover the real Venice.
SAILING THE WATERS OF THE GRAND CANAL If snuggling up with
your beloved in the hull of a lacquer-black gondola is in your list of fantasies, don't
pass up the costly opportunity, and be sure to budget accordingly. Even if you're
266
Search WWH ::




Custom Search