Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(p. 66) because of the way the light catches the terra-cotta rooftops of Trastevere.
Sunrise, on the other hand, is better from the terrace behind the
Campidoglio
(p. 56) overlooking the ancient forum, where the columns glisten in the day's first
light. The midday view is best from the top of
St. Peter's cupola
(p. 70), where
you can sometimes see the sun's reflection on the Mediterranean Sea in the dis-
tance, or from on top of the
Vittoriano
(p. 55) in the middle of Piazza Venezia,
where all of ancient Rome is laid out before you. Late afternoon is best from the
terrace of
Castel Sant'Angelo
(p. 72), from which you can see the warm golden
colors of the city below.
SEEING ROME FROM BELOW
Rome is a city of layers, and digging down
is as easy as tripping over a cobblestone. The
Pantheon
(p. 58), the
Piazza Navona
(p. 60), and the ruins at Largo Argentina, where Julius Caesar was assassinated, are
all easy vantage points from which to see how modern Rome has been plunked on
top of its ancient past. To dig deeper, you need only check out the
Balbi Crypt
(p. 62) or visit the fascinating church of
St. Clemente
(p. 80), which has three dis-
tinct layers to explore. But if you really want to go far below, head out along the
Appian Way to explore the massive network of underground
Catacombs
(p. 77).
VIEWING A MASTERPIECE FOR FREE
It's absolutely essential (and prac-
tically unavoidable) to see a masterpiece for free in Rome. Michelangelo's statue
of Moses sits in the quiet church of
San Pietro in Vincoli
(p. 55). You can find
Raphael's
Sibyls and Angels
fresco in the church of
Santa Maria della Pace
(p. 61).
Caravaggio's depiction of
St. Francis
contemplating death is free in
Santa Maria
della Concezione
(the Capuchin Church; p. 75), and his
Crucifixion of St. Peter
is in
Santa Maria del Popolo
(p. 73). For the best of Bernini's masterpieces, try
Santa Maria della Vittoria
(p. 80) for the
Ecstasy of St. Teresa;
walk behind the
Pantheon to the Piazza della Minerva for his beloved elephant carrying an obelisk;
or simply stroll through
Piazza Navona
(p. 60) for his
Fountain of the Four Rivers.
GETTING LOST IN TRASTEVERE
There is perhaps no city in the world
where getting lost is more fun. Dive into the confusing labyrinth of streets in the
quaint district of
Trastevere
(p. 63) and follow the winding maze until you run
into the Tiber River, the Gianicolo Hill, or the busy Viale Trastevere. Peek
through any door that is open, browse the tiny shops, and drink cappuccino until
you are dizzy. Sit on the fountain steps of a piazza, then cross over to the “other
side” of the Viale Trastevere and do it all over again.
SPLURGING ON A FIVE-COURSE MEAL IN A TINY TRATTORIA
It's
much easier (and cheaper) than it looks, especially if you go to a friendly place like
Perilli
(p. 35) in Testaccio. Start with a simple fried zucchini flower for your
antipasto,
have the pasta carbonara or the cannelloni for your
primo,
glide through
the suckling pork roast or grilled lamb as your
secondo,
and then pause--for just a
minute--before diving into a fresh green salad for your
contorno.
Follow that up
with a tiramisu or fresh Nemi strawberries on vanilla ice cream before shocking
your system with a late-night espresso. With any luck, the house will offer you a
limoncello
to help you digest it all. And you won't have spent much more than
€
25.
