Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
www.cantinabentivoglio.it).
That's when you'll hear some of the best jazz in
Bologna. It's also a popular spot for filmgoers, who stop in for some food (most
dishes
12) and tunes after catching one of the first-run movies at the Odeon
2 across the street.
SIDE TRIPS FROM BOLOGNA
I recommend taking at least one of these three side trips from Bologna.
FERRARA
One family, the Estes, accounts for much of what you'll find in Ferrara, an
enchanting city on the plains of Romagna. From 1200 to 1600, the Estes ruled
and ranted from their imposing castle that's still the centerpiece of Ferrara. They
endowed the city with palaces, gardens, and avenues, as well as intrigues, includ-
ing those of their most famous duchess, Lucrezia Borgia.
After the Estes left (when Rome refused to recognize the last heir of the clan
as duke), Ferrara fell victim to neglect and finally, during World War II, to bombs.
Despite the bombing, much of the Renaissance town remains and has been
restored. In fact, this city of rose-colored brick is one of the most beautiful in Italy
and, shrouded in a gentle mist from the surrounding plains as it often is, one of
the most romantic.
Lay of the Land
Ferrara is 45km (27 miles) north of Bologna.
Trains
arrive from and depart for
Bologna (25-60 min.) and Venice (1
1
⁄
4
-2 hr.) every half-hour. There are one to
two trains per hour to Ravenna (1-1
1
⁄
4
hr.) and Padua (45-85 min.).
The train station is a 15-minute walk from the center (or take bus no. 1 or 9);
just follow Viale Costituzione through the small park in front of the station to
Viale Cavour, which leads directly into the center of town.
The extremely helpful
tourist office
is in the
Castello Estense (
%
0532-
299303; www.ferraraterraeacqua.it or www.comune.fe.it).
Accommodations, Both Standard & Not
€
-
€€
€
6-
€
For basic budget lodgings, choose
Pensione Artisti
(Via Vittoria, 66;
%
0532-761038; no credit cards),
in the atmospheric medieval Jewish quarter a
few blocks from the Duomo. It's utterly utilitarian, but excellently priced at
43
for a double without bathroom,
€
60 with. The simple rooms are big, bright, and
clean; the heavy 1950s-era furnishings are a nice change from the banal furnish-
ings in most cheap hotels; and the shared bathroom facilities are plentiful and
clean. Rooms have orthopedic mattresses, sinks, and bidets. Plus, there are some
pleasant and unusual amenities here—a few rooms have vine-covered balconies,
guests have use of kitchen facilities on each floor, and there's a shared roof terrace.
€€
A step-up in amenities and price, the
San Paolo
(Via Baluardi, 9;
%
0532-
762040; www.hotelsanpaolo.it)
faces the old city walls at the southern edge of the
Jewish ghetto with its warren of lanes and small shops. Add to this atmospheric loca-
tion the attentive service of the proprietors, who rent bikes (
€
5 per day), dispense
advice on sightseeing and restaurants, and serve coffee from the little lobby bar. The
€
€
85 doubles are pretty bland but comfortable, with inoffensive contemporary
blond furnishings and small but functional bathrooms. They're always taking small
