Umbria - Italy - page 224

A BRIEF HISTORY OF GUBBIO
The Romans declared an alliance with the city of Iguvium at present-day
Gubbio in the 1st century B . C . The empire's print can be seen in the still-extant
amphitheater, and in the relics in the local museums. With the fall of Rome, the
citizens of Gubbio retreated up the hill to a more fortified city to fend off barbar-
ian attacks, but this didn't stop the marauding armies. Not until the 12th century
did Gubbio develop into a stable city, with walls and leadership strong enough to
fend off invaders. In 1155, Bishop (later to be St.) Ubaldo negotiated peace with
the warlord Barbarossa, preserving the city from destruction.
By the 13th century, Gubbio had developed into a prosperous city-state,
enjoying its important commercial location on the road from Rome to Ravenna.
Peace and prosperity through the mid-1300s fueled the construction of most of
the palaces, walls, and churches still standing today. But then Gubbio succumbed
to the 1348 plague, to generations of mismanagement by the dukes of Urbino,
and to 100 years of neglect by the papal states. Discarded as an unimportant back-
water, Gubbio was able to preserve its medieval traditions, architecture, and spirit.
Gubbio's spirit was particularly evident during World War II, when it hosted
a number of anti-Nazi Partisan groups. The Germans retaliated with a massacre
in 1944, memorialized in the Mausoleum of 40 Martyrs below town. Post-war
Gubbio has seen a rebirth of artisans' workshops, traditional festivals, and an epi-
cally ugly cement factory north of town.
LAY OF THE LAND
Reaching Gubbio can be a bit of a challenge because it's not on any of the main
highways or rail lines. Probably the best option is by car, taking the winding
SS298 north about 39km (25 miles) from Perugia or the No. 3 to the 219 com-
ing south 90km (60km) from Arezzo. Free parking is available at the lot next to
the Roman amphitheater.
If you're train-bound, stop at Fossato di Vico, about a half-hour bus-shuttle
away from town on the Rome-Ancona line, itself about a 2 1 ⁄ 4 hour ride from
Rome. Buses also go from Perugia to Gubbio 11 times daily, taking over an hour.
The Gubbio tourist office (Piazza Oderisi, 6, above Corso Garibaldi;
% 075-9220693) distributes tons of maps and brochures, but not advice.
ACCOMMODATIONS, BOTH STANDARD & NOT
€€

For the feel of a hidden apartment in the medieval city, try the Residenza
Le Logge

(Via Piccardi, 7-9; % 075-9277574; www.paginegialle.it/residenza
lelogge). This small building on a side street off Via Baldassini offers six smallish
but homey rooms, and a quiet backyard garden area where guests can enjoy morn-
ing coffee or a picnic lunch while they gaze at the palaces above. Along with three
additional mini-apartments in the next building, Le Logge's rooms can be rented
for

5

€

400 a week (or

€

80 per day in the high season).

€€ - €€€ Rodolfo Mencarelli has built a bit of an empire in town with his
three hotels, the Gattapone, the Bosone Palace, and the Relais Ducale (www.
mencarelligroup.com). The Relais Ducale Hotel (Via Galeotti, 19; % 075-

9220159), as the name implies, is built from a duke's palace, and even has its own
secret tunnel. Each of the 30 rooms is unique, ranging from the smaller, cheaper,

5