Umbria - Italy - page 223

3-6:30pm, Nov-Mar closes 5:30pm). Stairs to the left of the altar lead to the under-
ground chambers of the crypt. The rough Byzantine fresco fragments on the walls
(possibly dating to the 8th c. or earlier), the darkened room, and the funereal nature
of the altar all open a window into the early days of the Church.
THE OTHER SPOLETO
Sure, the Spoleto Festival is the town's big draw, but culture doesn't begin and end
there. If you arrive before the festival in June you can visit a number of competi-
tions in which aspiring artists studying in the city strut their stuff, hoping to earn
a spot in the main festival. The European Community Competition for Young
Opera Singers is in March, the International Dance Competition is in April, and
a biannual Competition for New Chamber Opera debuts its winner in the off sea-
son. For information about specific show times and locations, pick up a copy of
the bilingual Nuovo Spoleto, a free monthly magazine, or stop by the tourist office,
which will have listings of upcoming performances.
After the festival, both novices and near-professionals can join a course at the
Spoleto Arts Symposia that takes place in late July to early August. They offer
workshops in music, cooking, and writing. Wondering what to do with the kids?
No problem, the arts group also offers the Spoleto Kids Camp

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with arts and
crafts, drama, music, sports, and field trips. Enrollment can be from 5 days to
3 weeks. Many attendees stay together at the Istituto Bambin' Gesù convent. See
www.spoletoarts.com for more information.
GUBBIO
Geography saved Gubbio. Because it's so far off the beaten path, and so difficult
to get to by any means other than private car, this classic medieval hill town sur-
vived the 20th century with much of its historic soul intact. At night, when the
streets are largely deserted, the medieval stone walls loom in the darkness and eerie
lights illuminate the ruins of the amphitheater outside the town walls. You'd
almost expect to see toga-clad Romans rushing to catch the latest entertainments.
Walking around a corner and gazing at the ethereal silhouette of the ruined
medieval watchtower, you wouldn't be surprised to have to dodge a 10th-century
horseman, or the contents of a chamber pot tossed from a window above. Instead,
the next day, screaming kids kick soccer balls around the same squares and locals
gather for lively discussions over thimbles of espresso at street-front bars.
DON'T LEAVE GUBBIO WITHOUT . . .
VISITING THE TOP OF THE MOUNTAIN BY CABLE CAR Not for
those scared of heights, the slightly rickety gondola delivers visitors near the sum-
mit. But get up there by any means necessary to see the church, and climb to the
tower on the peak to enjoy views of the city and the wilderness to the rear.

SEEING A FESTIVAL If at all possible, plan to see Gubbio during one of its
many lively festivals. The Corsa dei Ceri race on May 15 is the biggest event, but
a dozen others are worth seeing to get a flavor of traditional Gubbio.

GOING TO THE PIAZZA GRANDE AND THE PALAZZO DEI CONSOLI
The central medieval plaza of Gubbio boasts memorable views of the countryside.
It's also home to a worthwhile museum inside the Palazzo dei Consoli.