Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the best of the temple is outside, as the interior was transformed in the 17th cen-
tury into a lackluster baroque church.
Above the town, and well worth the journey, is Erme delle Carceri
5
(free
admission; 6:30am-7pm), the prison; it's really a hermitage where St. Francis
retreated to pray, meditate, and preach to his disciples. A ramshackle collection of
rooms cut into the stones many centuries before Francis lived, this rustic friary
seems much more in line with St. Francis's teachings than the massive Basilica that
looms over the town. You can visit the cell where Francis prayed, and follow the
path outside to the woods where he must have experienced a close connection
with nature. At the door is a 1,000-year-old oak, where, according to legend,
Francis blessed birds that then flew off in four directions--a symbol of how
Francis's teachings would eventually reach all four corners of the globe. Along the
path is an amusing statue of St. Francis lying on the ground with his sandals off,
hands behind his head, peacefully pondering the clouds in the sky. Friars still live
in these simple caves and will guide you, though be sure to give a donation as the
monks live entirely on alms.
The hermitage is a tough 2-mile uphill walk from Porta Cappuccini, but is on
the main road, so it's easy to drive and pay a couple of euros for parking, or to
take a cab.
THE OTHER ASSISI
Tourists are not permitted to visit the Basilica of St. Francis during Mass on
Sundays, and gawkers are discouraged from entering chapels during a daily Mass.
But if you want to experience the spiritual and ceremonial side of the Basilica,
leave your camera in the hotel, dress conservatively, keep silent, and join the eld-
erly and the young, both local and international pilgrims, as they celebrate Mass.
Holy Masses are given at 7 and 11am, and 6pm daily in summer; November to
March 6pm only. At 7:15pm, you can see daily vespers and meditations at the
tomb. Sundays and holidays, Mass is celebrated at noon in the upper church.
TODI
Todi is a classic Umbrian hilltop village with winding cobblestone streets, stone
towers, and spectacular views of the countryside. Although much of the city has
been refurbished and taken over by Rome weekenders, it maintains its medieval
charm. It doesn't boast enough sights to merit an extended stay, but is worth at
least a day trip if you're based in nearby Assisi, Perugia, or Spoleto.
The best experience in Todi comes from wandering the streets and enjoying
the views of the countryside, and from the buildings themselves. Four churches
in town merit a visit. The main Duomo on the town square has colorful stained
glass, a fresco modeled after one in the Sistine Chapel, and an odd “Pope in a
boat” modern bronze statue jutting from one wall. You can climb the tower of
San Fortunato, above the main square, for impressive views. The interior, unlike
the crumbling facade, has a cool whitewashed solidity that is worth a peek.
On a side street, as you come back down to the road, is the Santa Maria in
Camuccia, housing a curious (and twice-stolen) 12th-century wood Madonna-
and-Child statue in a protective plastic box. Just off the main road is the
Romanesque Temple of Santa Maria della Consolazione, which is scenically
framed with the countryside behind it, and more impressive outside than within.
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