Umbria - Italy - page 206

p. 205) offer a chance to experience some of Orvieto's history while escaping
either the hot summer sun or cold winter winds.
The Etruscans were the first to burrow into the soft stone for building
materials and wells more than 2,500 years ago. Now there are over 1,200 caves
underneath Orvieto, essentially turning the plateau into a huge black chunk of
Swiss cheese.
The bulk of Orvieto's caves are small private basements dug to store wine or
other food to go with cheese. The caves on the city tour have also been used as a
stable, an olive-oil workshop, a World War II bomb shelter (no bombs hit), and
a pigeon farm.
During extended sieges of this fortified city, townspeople discovered that
pigeons were an almost magical source of food. Hundreds of pigeon coops were
dug into square holes in the cave walls, creating a kind of giant shoe rack. Pigeons
nested in the holes, and flew out gaps in the walls to the countryside to feed them-
selves. As pigeons reproduce every 20 days, Orvietans could alternate between
feasting on eggs and birds, without jeopardizing their food source.
Even if you miss Orvieto's many performance events at the Teatro Mancinelli
(Corso Cavour, 122; % 0763-340493; www.teatromancinelli.it; € 2; 9:30am-1:30pm
and 3-6:30pm), take the opportunity to visit the building, a show in and of itself.
For only € 2, you can wander through the building built in the 1860s. The 560-
seat theater was refurbished to all its neoclassical, neo-Renaissance splendor in the
1990s. The decor certainly isn't subtle, but it does give you a feeling for the rock-
star status of opera in the late 19th century.
For some interesting Umbrian historical artifacts (and a great view of the
Duomo facade), go to the Museo Claudio Faina e Museo Civico (Piazza del Duomo,
29; % 0763-341216; www.museofaina.it; € 4.20 adults, € 2.50 seniors and stu-
dents; summer 10am-1pm and 2-6pm, Oct-Mar 10am-1pm and 2:30-5pm). This
museum houses an extensive and eclectic collection of Etruscan and Roman arti-
facts, coins, art--basically anything spoiled rich kid/grave robber Claudio and his
father could seize in the 1800s. Museum management has tried to liven up the
displays with interactive signs, as well as buttons to rotate the coin trays. And if
you don't think pottery can be lively, check out the pornographic penis procession
on the urn in the upper-right case in Room 7. Also note the three-legged candle
holder from 300 B . C . on the third floor, in Room 16. As a bonus, the museum's
second- and third-story windows offer the city's best views of the Duomo's facade
directly across the piazza.
SHOPPING
It's a worthwhile stroll to check out “Artists Alley” (Via Dei Magoni off of Via
della Duomo) for a representative selection of ceramics, leather, and embroidery.
Even if you don't want to buy, it's interesting to watch the artisans at work. You
can find variations on the yellow-and-green theme at Mastro Paolo's (Piazza
Duomo, 36, % 0763-343667). The 70-year-old Paolo says that when he retires,
the store will, too, so don't delay. Most pieces run € 20 to € 40.
A quality, family-run wine shop in town is the Vinari cantina at Corso Cavour,
5, with only a green flag in front with their name and a jug on it. On sale: rea-
sonably priced whites and reds (starting at

€

7) from their local estates.