Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
5
Umbria
A logical next step after visiting Rome is to
drive through the remarkable hill towns that
make up this important region.
by Bill Fink
T
HE SMALL BUT VITAL REGION OF UMBRIA
,
WHICH LIES NORTHEAST OF
Rome, is made famous by St. Francis' hometown of Assisi and the Basilica there.
But despite that major attraction, Umbria has always played second fiddle to its
northern neighbor, Tuscany. And that's a darn shame because the region has much
more to offer than a single side trip on the road between Rome and Florence.
Umbria has at least a half-dozen remarkable cities of unique charm and his-
torical significance: Perugia, the capital, with a major university, jazz festival, and
Umbria's best art museum; Assisi of St. Francis fame; Gubbio, a medieval town
frozen in time with art-filled fortresses and churches along the slopes of a scenic
mountain; Spoleto, with its own famous festival, Duomo, and shop-lined squares;
Todi, a picturesque hilltop village with a maze of attractive streets; and Orvieto,
with its famous wines, its underground caves, and famous cathedral.
Seeing all the major sights of Umbria in a single trip is a reasonable proposi-
tion. Umbria is just over half the size of Connecticut, measuring about 97km (60
miles) north to south and 64km (40 miles) east to west (though winding moun-
tain roads can easily double the distance). The ideal way to explore the area is to
base yourself in an apartment or country cottage for a week, and drive a rented
car on day trips to various cities. Don't waste valuable vacation time changing
hotel and home city every day. Rail and bus lines connect the cities as well, but
not quite as conveniently as a rental car does.
The Umbrians are a festive people whom you'll greatly enjoy mixing with, par-
ticularly in their nightly ritual, the festive “see and be seen”
passeggiata,
as they
stroll up and down the streets of their historic towns.
PERUGIA
Perugia is a spirited city of 150,000 that seems at first glance to be a sprawling
confusion of railroad tracks and minimarts, a spaghetti of highways, tunnels, and
roundabouts. But reach the center of Perugia and you'll find one of Italy's most
vibrant historical districts, with a wealth of both traditional sites and eating and
entertainment options, culminating in the October Chocolate Festival and July's
world-class Umbrian Jazz Fest.
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