Tuscany - Italy - page 185

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a trip up to see its ornate interior. It took 250 years to complete from its start in
1278, and even then residents had to wait until 1859 for the bell tower, and until
the 20th century for the facade to be completed. The 16th-century stained-glass
windows by Guillame de Marcillat (a Frenchman!) are beautiful, but they don't let
in enough light to see much of the other works here, including the masterful
Santa Maria Maddalena fresco by Piero della Francesca to the right side of the
tomb of Bishop Tarlati. Past the fresco is a large cantoria designed by Vasari in 1535.
Vasari's architecture can also be seen in the main square, the tilted Piazza
Grande

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in the center of the old town. The square is used for antique fairs the
first Sunday of every month and for jousting on the first Sunday in September. It
was a setting for the movie Life is Beautiful in 1999. Vasari's loggia, built in 1573
(looking pretty similar to “Vasari's corridor” in Florence), is now filled with shops
and restaurants on the north end of the square. In 1550, Vasari designed the bell
tower, which tops off the Palazzo della Fraternità dei Laici. Dominicans spon-
sored the construction of the Gothic and early Renaissance Palazzo in the 1370s.
The portal is worth a look, as is the Madonna relief above the door.
For a glimpse into the lifestyle and mind of Vasari, you can stop by his house,
Casa di Vasari (Via XX Settembre, 55; % 0575-409040; € 2; Wed-Mon
8am-7:30pm, Sun and holidays closes 1pm). Ring the bell outside for admission,
as the door will be locked. On a recent visit, I could tell the place doesn't get many
visitors, as the one employee followed me around giving me an impromptu tour,
in Italian. Vasari bought the house in 1350, and decorated it as a monument to
himself. You can see his wall paintings featuring his portrait enshrined among the
greats of art (he places himself right next to Michelangelo), and a ceiling painting
of a battle between Virtue, Envy, and Fortune, perhaps Vasari's three main con-
cerns in life. And just to show he had some humility, there's a small bare chapel
off the living room, still with some original floor tiles, and a wooden altar for his
prayers.
A more serene location for prayers would be the San Domenico church

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(Piazza San Domenico; % 0575-22906; 8:30am-7pm) in the far northern part of
town. The tree-lined piazza doesn't see many visitors, and the church interior is

The Joys of Jousting
The most famous festival of Arezzo is the Giostra del Saracino (Saracen Joust)

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.
Competitive jousting took place in Arezzo at least as far back as 1400, and this
particular festival commemorates battles against invading Saracens. On the first
Sunday in September, the Piazza Grande is filled with dirt and packed with peo-
ple. Horsemen arrive in medieval garb to take their oath of combat in front of a
decked-out town hall. Historical parades of flag-wavers and jugglers tour through
town during the day. The event itself features horsemen competing with horse and
lance to nail the metal “Saracen” figure propped up in the middle of the square.
The catch is that the Saracen gets to fight back: If his shield is hit, the figure
spins around, swinging the whip propped in his other arm.