Tuscany - Italy - page 178

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includes an excellent Crucifixion by Perugino (1506); a 1338 Lorenzetti fresco
with Virgin, saints, and a really surprised-looking Jesus; and a number of chapels
dating from the 1400s to the 1700s. A helpful English-language handout describ-
ing the art and artists is available to visitors.
THE OTHER SIENA
Of course, there's no better place to meet locals and witness the best of Sienese life
than at one of the annual neighborhood contrade parties. They are part traditional
festival, part frat party, and part carnival—with everything from rock bands to
weathered accordion players. Booths and local shops sell wine and food; games,
gossip, and gambling on the upcoming Palio races are popular nighttime activi-
ties. These are not tourist-oriented events, but the locals are very welcoming—just
don't be carrying the flag of a competing neighborhood! You can find out about
these events by asking your concierge or a waiter at a restaurant, or just by hear-
ing some noise and walking to it. The parties take place in various neighborhoods
during the month before and after the races, from late June to late August.
Or go to a local game. Siena's up-and-coming AC Siena soccer team (Via dei
Montanini, 87; % 0577-281084; www.acsiena.it) has risen to the top Serie A divi-
sion after years of barely maintaining Serie B status. Tickets begin at € 20, and can
be purchased at most tobacco shops. The team plays in black-and-white striped
shirts in tribute to the striped Duomo and other sites in town. A spirited crowd
fills the 16,000-seat Stadio Comunale on the north side of town every other
Sunday from September through May.
If you're tired of soccer, choose basketball--Siena is hoops crazy! Their
Montepaschi Mens Sana pro basketball team (Via Sclavo, 8; % 0577-38071) won
the Italian league title in 2003-04, and claims to be Italy's oldest club. If you're
there during the fall-winter season, check out a game—it's fun to join the raucous,
singing, chanting, soccer-style crowd. You can purchase tickets ( 48) at most

tobacco shops, including the one next to the bus terminal at Piazza Gramsci.
Games are played at the Palazzo Dello Sport, a few miles north of town.
To check out the local English-speaking literary scene, drop by the Book Shop
(Galleria S. Pietro, 19; % 0577-226594; www.bookshopsiena.com). You can
attend readings or just hang out in the comfy chairs; sample English-language
books; and meet some British, American, and Australian expats.
SHOPPING
Siena doesn't have nearly the depth and breath of shopping opportunities as
nearby Florence, but it does offer more than most Tuscan cities. In summer 2005,
the city encouraged all shops to stay open until midnight; as this topic goes to
press, I can't say whether the experiment will be repeated, but I think it will
(allowing you to satisfy a late-night Gucci fix).
Books
Libreria Senese (Via di Citta, 64; % 0577-280845) has a wide selection of
specialty art and travel books in English, in addition to local guides, maps, and
souvenirs.

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