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173
tile floors. But it's only half a block from the Piazza del Campo, so the location is
great and prices start at just 70 for a double in high season for air-conditioned
rooms with private bathroom. Expect a few minor downsides to staying here—no
phones in the rooms and no elevator (meaning you've got to climb the 32 steep
steps to the third floor). But on the whole I think it's quite a good deal.
5
(Via
della Sapienza, 15; % 0577-289047; www.albergobernini.com), a friendly family-
run operation that boasts excellent views of the Duomo from the hallway and a
small terrace (a great place to relax). Other pluses: new bathrooms, clean rooms,
and an extremely quiet setting above a convent. Double rooms with private bath-
room go for
Another of the better options in central Siena is the Hotel Bernini
€€
62 without one. You can also rent one of a couple of well-
appointed apartments, with useable kitchens, around the corner, through their
Bernini Apartments
82,
5
, beginning at
100 per night.
5
- €€
(Viale
Curtatone, 15; % 0577-271177; www.chiusarelli.com), a colonnaded neoclassical
villa just 1 block from the bus station. Rooms are light and airy, with modern
decor and comfortable beds, many with good-size verandas. Double-room prices
are 122, including breakfast. As a bonus, on weekends you get balcony views of
Siena's soccer team playing in the stadium behind the hotel. The hotel has a small
parking lot, a large restaurant, and an Internet terminal for guests.
Slightly more stylish digs can be found at the Hotel Chiusarelli
€€ - €€€ Casolare la Vigna (near Belcaro Castle; % 0577-283311) is a
friendly family-run agriturismo /apartment 4km (2 1 2 miles) south of town, and a
good choice for those seeking a peaceful hideaway near the city. Their recently
refurbished two-bedroom apartment (converted from an old stable) includes a full
kitchen, antique furnishings, satellite TV, and a washer/dryer, and costs about
150 a night--more during festival time, less in winter. The family also rents a
bedroom with bathroom in their house for
90 a night. Though it's obvi-
ously not a full-service hotel, there are many extras. Your hosts, gourmet chefs,
will cook meals on request, and also give cooking lessons using ingredients from
an organic garden behind the house. Daughter Cinzia Mariotti is a licensed guide
who leads city tours and treks into the countryside. This may be one of the few
agriturismi accessible to those traveling by train and bus, as there is regular bus
service from the house into Siena proper.
DINING FOR ALL TASTES
- €€ A very popular pizzeria tucked in a winding street beneath San
Domenico, Ristorante La Pizzeria di Nonno Mede
80 to
(Camporegio, 21; % 0577-
247966) is a good choice for a quick but extremely pleasant meal. You may need
reservations, however, because this scenic patio spot (with views of the Duomo)
is packed until almost midnight. Pizzas begin at only 5, and toppings range
from the usual sausages and mushrooms to seafood and artichokes.
5
€€ You'll be spending your days among the medieval marvels of Siena, so why
not dine medieval as well? At the Gallo Nero
5 9
(Via del Porrione, 65/67;
% 0577/284-356; www.gallonero.it), the chefs have consulted with professors at
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