Travel Reference
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162
spiffy apartments managed by a local woman, who is known simply as Carla, and
her English-speaking son Francesco. Through Busini Rossi Carla
55 9
(Via
Cellole, 81; % 0577-941268; www.rossicarla.it), Carla offers four apartments,
starting at 70 per night ( 450 per week). My favorite is the Tortoli Palace
Apartment on the upper level of an old tower with an eye-popping view of the
Piazza della Cisterna. It offers a full kitchen, dining room, comfortable bedrooms
(containing up to five beds), and views of the countryside and main square (
160
per day, or 1,040 per week). They also have a newly restored farmhouse called
Podere Ponte a Nappo, just outside San Gimignano, with two apartments, two
bedrooms, free parking, and even a barbecue pit. Prices range from 450 to 650
per week for two people in an apartment, up to
1,010 for six jammed into the
one-bedroom apartment with loft. Daily rentals are also available. Part of the fun
of staying here is meeting Carla, who will often treat guests to a glass of vino on
the square after they settle into their temporary homes. Book far in advance, as
these apartments get many return renters, year after year.
For those on a tight budget, a good deal can be had with the friendly nuns at
the Foresteria del Monastero San Girolamo
5 9
(Via Folgore, 32, just behind
Porta San Jacobo; % 0577-940573). For 27, you'll get breakfast and a bed in
one of the nine basic but clean rooms. Most rooms have from three to four beds.
They generally don't place random people together, so a family has a good chance
of snagging an empty four-bed room. Free parking is available in a dirt lot across
the street.
My second choice for hotel digs would be the Hotel Bel Soggiorno (Via San
Giovanni, 91; % 0577-940375; www.hotelbelsoggiorno.it), perched at the top of
the southern walls of the city. The junior suites (
€€
120 per night) with balcony
views of the countryside are the top choices here, but there are also nice standard
doubles with a street view for
95, and doubles with a terrace and country view
for 110. Rooms are modern and spotless, if somewhat lacking in character. The
restaurant serves dinner and boasts fine panoramic views as well.
€€ - €€€
The choice hotel in the central Piazza della Cisterna is the Hotel
(Piazza della Cisterna; % 0577-941294; www.leonbianco.com).
This crisp and clean refurbished 11th-century palazzo has 25 inviting rooms with
modern fixtures combined with stone arches, wood-beamed ceilings, and terra-
cotta tiles. Doubles with a view run from 105 to 135 in the high season, while
a single without a view can be had for
5
Leon Bianco
60. The hotel even has a mini fitness cen-
ter, a pleasant deck for breakfast, and a Jacuzzi in a random niche. The helpful
staff can offer tourism tips for the area.
DINING FOR ALL TASTES
- €€€ A brasserie, set in an actual castle, complete with rib-vaulted ceilings
and a terrace with great countryside view, the Ristorante La Griglia
5
(Via San
Matteo, 34/36; % 0577-940005; www.sangimignano.com/lagriglia) is a lovely
place to dine. Its lively bar is about the only thing going for nightlife in this quiet
town, so dine late and then stay to socialize. If you want to avoid the coperto
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