Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
152
The archangel Michael stands in winged glory on top of the spectacular facade
of San Michele in Foro
(Piazza S. Michele; % 0583-48459; free admission;
daily 7:30am-noon and 3-6pm). Exquisitely detailed columns of every size, shape,
and color bedeck the four-tiered facade in a composition that echoes that of the
Duomo in Pisa (this “column-mania” was characteristic of the area in the
12th-13th c.). Note how the facade extends beyond the church's roof, a result of
ambition outstripping funding. The interior can't quite match the outside, but it
does have a fancy organ decorated with fleur-de-lis, and a nice Filippo Lippi
painting at the far end of the right side of the church. The “Foro” part of the
church's name comes from the fact that it was built on the original site of a
Roman forum. The square outside is a prime spot for people-watching at all hours
of the day.
SHOPPING
The purchases you'll make here are arguably as good as those in Florence. Lucca
offers a wealth of shopping opportunities along Via Fallungo and Via Santa Lucia:
Olive oil, jewelry, chocolates, perfumes, and wines are among the Luccan treats.
A few worth mentioning:
u A branch of the historical Officina Profumo di Santa Maria Novella
(Via Vittorio Veneto, 29; % 0583-490850; www.smnovella.it) sells soaps,
colognes, and “Vinegar of the Seven Thieves,” a cure for “fainting-fits.”
u Visit Cioccolateria Canoparoli (Via San Paolino, 96; % 0583-53456) for
some of the best chocolate in the region.
u Lucca in Tavola (Via San Paolino, 130; % 0583-581002) has a wide selec-
tion of famous regional olive oils.
u Carli Pietro (Via Fillungo, 95; % 0583-491119) is a jewelry store-cum-
museum, with fresco-covered walls and jewel-filled display cases. You may
not be able to afford anything here, but it offers exquisite window-shopping.
u The English Bookshop (Borgo Giannotti, 493; % 0583-4696446) can be a
good spot to buy detailed area guides, or to pick up some summer reading.
5
NIGHTLIFE
A city that was home to Paganini, Puccini, Boccherini, and Catalani and others
would obviously be a good place to hear some classical music or attend the opera.
The Teatro Del Giglio (Piazza del Giglio, 13/15; % 0583-467521; www.teatrodel
giglio.it) is where Rossini premiered William Tell in 1831. Today it has a full
opera season running from October to April. Tickets range from
25 to
40.
Aside from opera, the theater also hosts plays and dance performances.
For more music, the University of Cincinnati College Conservatory of Music,
of all places, coordinates the Opera Theater and Music Festival of Lucca in tan-
dem with its study-abroad program. Visitors can watch rehearsals and outdoor
performances around town from June to July. Check www.ccmoperalucca.org or
the tourist office for details.
PISA
Even a lifetime of seeing images of the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa doesn't quite
prepare you for your first sight of this tourist icon. Up close it looks like a giant
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