Tuscany - Italy - page 148

rooms are a little worn around the edges, and some lack air-conditioning, though
the hotel says they're upgrading soon. The superior rooms ( € 140- € 160) are
really superior, with slick, 21st-century wood paneling and minimalist furniture.
Each of the 60 rooms has a grand view either of the cathedral, the tree-lined
Piazza Napoleone, or Piazza del Giglio.

55

(Via degli Angeli, 23;
% 0583-469204) has flatscreen TVs to go with the stylishly decorated but still
traditional rooms with wood-beam ceilings; rooms run about € 150 for a double.
DINING FOR ALL TASTES
€ - €€

A definite step up, the Alla Corte degli Angeli

€€€

A prime location in front of the cathedral—a lively scene of locals
and tourists—and fresh salads and appetizers make Giro Vita

5 9

(Piazza
Antelminelli, 2; % 0583-469412) a great spot for lunch or an evening aperitivo
(7:30-9:30pm). Children enjoy the snack menu and fruit slurpees, and if they
kick up a fuss, their parents can relax--it's noisy enough here to cover all but the
loudest tantrums. Entrees are in the € 6-to- € 8 range, including the large seafood
salad (recommended) at 6.50. Because the place

is open 8am to 1am, you can always depend on getting a decent quick bite here.
Simple dinners are served Tuesday to Thursday nights.

€

7 and a light veggie pasta for

€

€€€ If you're looking for a more substantial meal, a popular spot for dinner
since 1782 is Buca di Sant Antonio

5

(Via della Cervia, 1/3, near Piazza S.
Michele; % 0583-55881; www.bucadisantantonio.com; Tues-Sun; reservations
recommended for dinner). It's a homey restaurant serving characteristic Luccan
cuisine, with hanging hams, pots and pans, a fireplace, and assorted antiques clut-
ter. Tops on the menu is a tummy-warming flat pasta with stewed hare in wine
sauce pappardelle alla leper, for € 14; and breast of guinea fowl with grapes, petto
di faraona all'uva moscato, for 17. On a cold evening, order the traditional pud-

ding, castagnaccio, a rich combination of chestnut flour and ricotta cheese. Most
main courses cost between

€

€

13 and

€

17.

€€ - €€€ For a change of pace, you can try the seafood at Osteria del Neni
(Via Pescheria, 3, between Piazze San Michele and Napoleone; % 0583-492681;
www.leosteriedilucca.com; Tues-Sun). The menu changes by the season, but usu-
ally offers a variety of fresh fish combined with homemade pastas. The sea bass
with pesto is a good combo for € 13, as is the seafood (frutti di mare) linguini at
€

13, and secondi are slightly higher. Summers offer
the chance to dine at the restaurant's street-front patios. Even with reservations,
expect to do some waiting for your meal at this very popular restaurant.

11. Pastas cost from

€

9 to

€

€€ - €€€ My final choice is a trendy, ultramodern bunker of an eatery that
serves as a cafeteria/restaurant/jazz bar, its personality shifting depending on the
time of day. Early on, San Colombo

5 9

(Via Baldeschi, 9; % 0583-464641;
www.caffetteriasancolombano.it) is a snack shop/ gelateria, at dinner it's a nice
restaurant, and later in the evenings it becomes a hopping nightspot, especially on
Wednesdays and Fridays, when you can listen to the DJ or live jazz until about
1am. If you stop by for dinner, try the traditional set menu ( € 28), with such