Tuscany - Italy - page 142

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The main attractions of Lucca are the walls themselves, arguably the best pre-
served Renaissance ramparts in the world. Twelve meters (40 ft.) high, 15m (50 ft.)
across, and with a 4km (2 1 ⁄ 2 miles) circumference, the walls, which once offered
protection, are now a recreation area. Topped by trees, walking paths, parks, and
playgrounds, this is where locals and visitors come to unwind; you'll see elderly
women gossiping, men playing cards on benches, and grandchildren picnicking in
the shade.
The sight from the walls is nearly as striking: a grid-patterned town, laid out
by the methodical ancient Romans, with a soaring cathedral at its heart. Off to
one side is the Anfiteatro Romano, an oval-shaped enclosure of medieval build-
ings surrounding the original foundation of a Roman amphitheater. It makes a
certain kind of sense that Lucca's famous son, opera legend Giacomo Puccini, was
sired here, amid all this beauty and drama.
DON'T LEAVE LUCCA WITHOUT . . .
WALKING OR BIKING ALONG THE TOP OF THE CITY WALLS

These

are Italy's premier passeggiate (promenades).

VISITING THE CATTEDRALE DI SAN MARTINO Its exterior has an
interesting mix of styles and carvings, and the interior features the famous Volto
Santo woodcarving of Jesus, said to have been done at the time of his crucifixion.

SAVORING ZUPPA LUCCHESE Try some of this Luccan specialty, a layered
custard dessert made from liqueur-soaked ladyfingers, custard, and fresh berries.

HAVING A MEAL AT BUCA DI SAN ANTONIO A city favorite for years,
this 18th-century roadhouse-turned-country-kitchen offers the best of Luccan
regional cuisine.

ATTENDING THE OPERA Since Lucca is the home of Puccini, the Lucchese
love to catch the latest incarnation of their hometown hero's operas in the open
air during summer around Torre del Lago, or in autumn at the Teatro del Giglio.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF LUCCA
Lucca has been a significant city since Roman times, when Caesar, Pompey, and
Crassus met here to create their Triumvirate government in 56 B . C . At that time,
Lucca had already been a Roman colony for 200 years. In the 2nd century A . D .,
the Romans added the amphitheater, whose arches and columns still form the
supports of the medieval buildings
surrounding Lucca's oval Teatro
Romano piazza.
Lucca's history was also touched by
the early days of Christianity. St.
Paolino, one of St. Peter's deacons, is
said to have brought the faith to the
city in A . D . 47, making Lucca the first
Tuscan city to be converted. In 588, a
wandering Irish abbot settled in town

“ Lucca . . . that compact and

admirable little city, overflowing with
everything that makes for ease, for
plenty, for beauty, for interest and
good example.

”

—Henry James, Italian Hours, 1909