Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
4
Tuscany
On winding roads through famous wine country,
and in awesome cities, visitors lose themselves
in masterworks of the past.
by Bill Fink
T HIS IS THE ITALIAN COUNTRYSIDE OF PEOPLE ' S DREAMS : ROLLING HILLS
covered with vineyards and castles; and fortified hill towns punctuated with
medieval stone towers and Gothic church spires. In its cities are Renaissance
palazzi, and on its farms are houses and manors transformed into charming bed-
and-breakfasts.
There are plenty of visitors in this ultrapopular part of Italy. But the fame con-
tinues to be deserved, and the legions of tourists haven't diminished Tuscany's
character. Pisa and Siena are historical rivals to Florence, both containing some of
the most famous monuments in the world. Little Lucca, with its massive stone
walls now topped by green parks, is proud of its long tradition of music, art, and
architecture. San Gimignano, a “medieval Manhattan” with its many stone tow-
ers, stands as a reminder of the vibrant centers of trade that these cities once were.
Take the famed Chianti road, winding like a string of spaghetti past dozens of
wineries in the hills between Florence and Siena. Stop in Siena for its churches,
palaces, art museums, and the famed Piazza del Campo, site of the Palio horse
races. Continue south to enjoy the festivals of Arezzo, the gateway to the Umbria
region.
In planning a Tuscan holiday, it makes sense to base yourself at one, maybe
two, locations, and do day trips to the various towns. It's much easier to make the
commute (either by bus, train, or car) than to change hotels every day. The cities
are surprisingly close to one another. For trips to Lucca, Pisa, and San Gimignano,
I would either base myself in some countryside lodging or in Florence. Siena is
worth several days' stay, both as a destination and as a base to visit Chianti and
nearby hill towns.
LUCCA
Lucca is a bite-size city of churches, shops, and gardens, surrounded by a thick cir-
cle of walls. And it's free of the throngs that can make even the most beautiful
attractions of nearby Florence or Pisa feel like a chore to tour at times. Though
no place in Tuscany could be called “undiscovered,” Lucca has somehow managed
to retain its historic aura.
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