Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
136
usually alter a jacket at no extra cost (be sure to allow at least a day, though, if you
need any work done). Gherardini (Via della Vigna Nuova, 57R; % 055-215678;
www.gherardini.it) and Cesar Elater Factory (Piazza San Croce; % 055-2340315;
caesarleatherfactory@libero.it) are two recommended stores for quality and serv-
ice in this area. Beltrami (Via della Vigna Nuova, 70R; % 055-287779) is another
top name for leather and one you may recognize--its goods are also sold in the
United States. You'll find them for less here than in Venice, especially if you make
the trek to Beltrami Spa (Via del Panzani, 11R; % 055-212661), which offers dis-
counts of 20% to 50% off last season's fashions.
High-quality jackets can be found in the shops around Santa Croce, or in a
few Oltrarno stores. Suola del Cuio (Piazza Santa Croce, 16; % 055-244534) ini-
tially began as a leather-crafts school for Franciscan monks, and has expanded its
partnership over the years with a major Florentine trading house to develop into
a well-known and full-service leather shop (with prices to match). A good cheaper
option is Lorenz Leather (Piazza San Lorenzo, 10R; % 055-213348), with a wide
selection and quick turnaround on alteration. Bags and purses can be found in
these same stores, and both get good reviews. The high-end Prada and Gucci
stores also offer finely crafted products, but you'll be paying a lot for the name and
their high-rent location. Moreover, if you've come all the way to Florence, you
should probably buy something more unique than a name brand you can pick up
in your hometown. South of the Arno, John F. (Lungarno Corsini, 2; % 055-
2398985; www.johnf.it) and Anna's (Piazza Pitti, 40R; % 055-283787; www.
annapitti.it) both have soft-as-a-baby's-fanny leather jackets for both men and
women.
NIGHTLIFE
Florence isn't especially known for its nightlife. Live-music venues are few, clubs
are scattered around town, and there really isn't any particular neighborhood that
lights up at night.
That being said, the influx of tourists and exchange students ensures there's
always going to be an Irish pub within a couple of blocks. Additionally, the
younger set has its four or five requisite dance clubs; the cultured have opera; and
the too-cheap-to-buy-a-ticket can enjoy free evening concerts in historic squares
during the summer. And open-container laws are lax, so if all else fails you can
always kick back with a drink on the steps of a historic building and watch the
evening promenade of locals and visitors (possibly the best nightlife option of all).
PERFORMING ARTS
While it's not Milan or Roma, Florence has a respectable arts scene boasting two
well-regarded symphony orchestras and a large concert hall, Teatro Comunale
(Corso Italia, 12; % 055-213535), which presents seasons of ballet and classical
music (it's also the venue for the annual Maggio Musicale; see “Festive Florence,”
above). Prices can vary widely by show (up to
150 for headliners), but in gen-
eral it's possible to get a ticket here for as little as 15 to 20 if you're willing to
accept a seat in the second gallery.
A secondary theater, the Teatro Verdi (Via Ghibellina, 99; % 055-212320; www.
teatroverdifirenze.it), is where you go to see touring shows. Major international
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