Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
134
An Oltrarno shop where you can see the engravers in action is L'Ippogrifo
Stampe d'Arte (Via S. Spirito, 5R; % 055-213255; www.stampeippogrifo.com).
Examine the cityscapes and still lifes on the walls, and then step back into the
workshop to witness the copperplate pressing technique, the same one that has
been used in Florence for 500 years. For antique engravings, stop by Giovanni
Baccani (Via della Vigna Nuova, 75R; % 055-214467), which has a grand collec-
tion of prints and engravings.
FASHION
For chic Italian clothes at last season's prices (generally because you're getting last
season's styles), I have two suggestions: Guardaroba/Stock House Grandge Firme
(Borgo degli Albizi, 87r; % 055-234-0271) and Stock House Il Giglio (Via Borgo
Ognissanti, 86; no phone). Both carry overstock clothing in perfect condition from
some of the biggest names in Italian fashions--at discounts of as much as 60%.
If you need to be more au courant than that, you can find affordable clothes
at the department store Coin (Via dei Calzaiuoli, 56r; % 055-280531; www.
coin.it) or at La Rinascente (Piazza della Repubblica, 1; % 055-219113; www.
rinascente.it). Both are members of national chains. And for the fashionistas
among you, head directly to the Via dei Tornabuoni, Via Nuova, or Via degli
Strozzi, where Pucci, Gucci, and other big names in Italian fashion have their
chic shops.
JEWELRY
Florence doesn't offer the same buys on jewelry that it once did. Prices tend to be
high and there are some shops that will pass off inferior stones, so choose care-
fully. I can, however, heartily recommend the following two shops, not just for
their craftsmanship but also for their honest service. First up is the Alessandro
Dari Museum Shop
(Via S. Niccolo, 115R, eastern Oltrarno; % 055-244747; www.
alessandrodari.com), where the jewelry is truly unique. Goldsmith/craftsman/
musician Alessandro Dari is always busy at his bench in this combination show-
case, lounge, and workshop. Prices range from
5
120 for a simple “love ring” to
30,000 for what looks like an actual-size jeweled golden village for your finger.
For a wider variety of jewelry, go to Gioielleria Manetti (Via dei Calzaiuoli, 92r,
near the Duomo; % 055-214401; www.gioielleriamanetti.it), a popular family-
run craft shop with jewelry, watches, and silver.
LEATHER SHOPS & STALLS
A decent leather jacket can be found for not much more than 100 in the stalls
around San Lorenzo, but don't expect it to be an heirloom. Indeed, it's not
uncommon to experience fraying stitches and broken zippers after only a few
weeks' use of the cheaper leather goods, so check the craftsmanship closely before
purchasing. Generally, the fewer number of pieces used for construction, the
higher the quality: A jacket that looks like a quilt has a greater chance of falling
apart. Feel free to haggle: You have buyer's power because of the number of stalls
in the area. You can usually get the seller to drop the initial price by half, more if
you buy multiple items.
A better option is to go into one of the nearby stores, whose permanent loca-
tion makes them more likely to be accountable for quality. Also, these stores will
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