Florence: Great City of the Renaissance - Italy - page 131

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(building and destroying an arch), clothing (an actor portrays a Renaissance noble
getting dressed), and optics (assembling a replica of Galileo's telescope) can often
be understood by youthful visitors. And while it can be fun to try to figure out
what's going on in Italian and joining Florentine families, the museum also offers
some English performances, usually on weekends. Contact them via phone or at
[e-mail] to learn about special workshops and their latest opening
hours—which change often.
Many locals do their food shopping at the central market, Mercato Centrale,
near the San Lorenzo church. They've cleaned it up for tourists, and the Japanese
exchange students serving as store clerks are a signal that this isn't quite the locals-
only destination it used to be. But still, neighborhood restaurateurs come here for
fresh meat, produce, and olive oils from the Tuscan-area farms. You can pick up
ingredients for a picnic in the park, or just ogle the amazing colors, shapes, and sizes
of the fruits and vegetables on display. Get advice from vendors about a gift bottle
of olive oil or essence of truffles, or snack on some sample sausages from the butcher.
On the opposite side of town, the smaller Sant'Ambrogio market also offers a
“super” market experience. The city of Florence has free guided tours of these mar-
kets, with food explanations and tastings on Tuesday and Wednesday mornings at
9:30am. For more information, contact % 055-3036108 or itinerary.turistici@
siwebsrl.com.
After Romans beheaded St. Minias in the 3rd century, he supposedly picked
up his head and rushed up the hill to the spot of his future church. Visitors don't
need to make such a sacrifice to join the locals for afternoon vespers at San
Miniato church. Just leave your camera in the hotel, dress conservatively, and
climb to the church behind Piazza Michelangelo in time for the 4:30pm cere-
monies. Monks begin with Gregorian chants in the same way they did almost
1,000 years ago.
If you can't make it to the evocative services at San Miniato, try to attend Mass
at any one of a number of other central Florence churches during those times
when “tourists are forbidden.” Times vary by church, but there are often daily
services around 7:30am and 5:30pm, while on Sundays, Masses happen at 8,
10am, noon, and 5pm at selected churches. Again, so long as you act like a parish-
ioner, with bowed head and whispered tones, you'll be treated like one.
Florence's early fortune was built with the textile trade, and today the city is
still a leader in the fashion world. There's no better way to glimpse this vibrant
modern side of the Florence than to go to one of its major fashion fairs. The Pitti
Immagine fairs are held in winter, spring, and fall in the Fortessa da Basso.
Admission is € 20 for the official events, and they're technically for “the trade”
only, but you can probably fudge some info on the registration forms. For more
information, go to www.pittimmagine.com. Accommodations in town can be
tight during the fairs, but Florence is alive with official and unofficial events,
including fashion shows, product displays, and corporate promotions. Even pass-
ing on the periphery of one of these fairs is a good way to get an insider perspec-
tive on the modern business of the Italian fashion industry.
SHOPPING
As I've noted more than once, Florence built its medieval riches from the textile
and clothing trade, and it continues to be a mecca for shopping as well as a center