Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Brunelleschi's 15th-century pulpit. It was on this spot that Galileo was first
denounced as a heretic for declaring that the earth revolved around the sun.
And if you think commercialism has only recently come to churches in Italy,
look at the facade for proof otherwise. The mosaic inscription near the top has a
600-year-old advertisement that says, “This church brought to you by Giovanni
Rucellai,” the nobleman who funded renovation of the church in 1458.
Now, from the Rucellais to the much more important Medicis, who ruled
Florence and Tuscany for generations, fought popes, became popes, and wanted a
church and memorial worthy of their ambitions. So they had themselves
entombed in great glory in their home parish, in the Basilica di San Lorenzo and
in the Medici chapels
5
(Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, enter behind the
Basilica di San Lorenzo; % 055-2388602; www.firenzemusei.it; 6; Tue-Sat
8:15am-5pm and 1st, 3rd, and 5th Mon of every month and the 2nd and 4th Sun).
The first room of the latter, the extravagant Chapel of the Princes, displays gaudy
but entertaining marble decorations of all shapes and sizes. For a more artistic and
restrained setting, continue inside to the New Sacristy. Michelangelo designed the
tombs here, as well as his famous foursome of statues, Dawn, Dusk, Night, and
Day. Compare and contrast Michelangelo's figures: There's not much difference
between the bulk and musculature of the massive female and male bodies, sort of
a Renaissance version of the old East German swim teams.
The Basilica di San Lorenzo (Piazza San Lorenzo; % 055-216634; 2.50;
Basilica Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Biblioteca Medicea-Laurenziana Mon-Sat
9am-1pm), a very short stroll west of the Medici chapels, offers a peaceful respite
from the mass of vendors outside. Brunelleschi, of Duomo fame, designed the
structure in the 1440s. Donatello's final works, the bronze pulpits, display dra-
matic crucifixion scenes. For his effort, the artist earned a tomb in the church.
Depending on your other options and interests, this church may not be worth
your time or the admission charge.
The Biblioteca Medicea-Laurenziana, attached to the church, is notable not
only for its historic collection of manuscripts but for the Michelangelo-designed
architecture and stone staircase. Go through the gateway to the left of the church
entrance, walk up the stairs, and take a peek; it's free, unless they've closed it for
an exhibition.
The final notable sight in this area is another Medici chapel, this time at the
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi
(Via Camillo Cavour, 1; % 055-2760340; 4; Thurs-
Tues 9am-7pm). Once the home of Lorenzo the Magnificent (before Cosimo de
Medici moved the family to the Palazzo Vecchio), it boasts splendid frescoes by
Benozzo Gozzoli, who took as his theme the journey of the Magi and filled this
lighthearted, color-rich fresco with dozens of portraits of the notables of the day.
If you have time, stop by to see this lovely chapel; if not, save it for your next visit
to Florence.
NEAR OR ON PIAZZA SAN MARCO
Rarely does a famous piece of art live up to the hype. Michelangelo's David, in the
Galleria dell'Accademia (Academia Gallery)
5
(Via Ricasoli, 58-60; % 055-
2388609; www.polomuseale.firenze.it; 6.50; Tues-Sun 8:30am-7pm), does. The
statue is much larger than most people imagine, looming 4.8m (16 ft.) on top of
555
Search WWH ::




Custom Search