Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
106
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€€€
A surprisingly good meal amid the Internet cafes and cut-rate shops
of Via Faenza can be had at
Trattoria da Guido
(Via Faenze 34R;
%
055-289746;
Thurs-Tues).
Quick and friendly service and a relaxed setting make this trattoria
a way to escape the chaos outside. The
€
6 prosciutto sampler appetizer is well rec-
ommended, as is the strong-tasting veal
tonnato
ensemble with capers and
anchovies for
€
12. The restaurant prepares a hearty and delicious
bistecca alla
fiorentina
as well, running in the
€
20 to
€
25 range (depending on weight).
€€
-
€€€
For the quintessential Florentine dining experience, have a
bistecca
alla fiorentina
at
Ristorante le Fonticine
(Via Nazionale 79R;
%
055-
282106; www.lefonticine.com; Tues-Sun).
Waiters bring steaks from the open-air
oven to be carved at a central table and then distributed to guests packed into the
two large rooms of Gianna and Silvano Bruci's family restaurant, where diners
have been going home happy since 1959. Their son Gian Piero helped with a
2004 updating of the restaurant, refreshing the facilities, adding air-conditioning,
and a few menu items, but leaving the colorful cluttered collection of original
artwork covering the walls. Start with the Tuscan salami appetizer or a bowl of
minestrone soup for around
555
5, continue with the
tagliarini 'fonticine
--thin
homemade noodles in a truffles-and-mushroom sauce for
€
8—and then move on
to the mouth-watering steaks,
€
24 per person but well spent. The dessert ice
cream comes direct from Vivoli's, perhaps the top
gelateria
in Florence.
€
(Via del Moro 48r;
%
055-
211396; www.garga.it)
has to be one of the most original spots in town, utterly
infused with the personality of its owners, the husband-and-wife team of Giuliano
Gargani (“Garga”) and Sharon Oddson. They cook the food, an updated, slightly
experimental, and always delicious version of traditional Tuscan fare; painted all
of the colorful walls themselves; and put on quite a show during mealtime, bel-
lowing out orders, singing opera, and generally making sure everyone has a good
time. Sharon also runs cooking classes out of the trattoria kitchen during the week
for
5
Set in a 14th-century
palazzo,
Trattoria Garga
€€€
155 for a daylong session (you cook and then feast). Recommended menu
items include spaghetti with shrimp, tomatoes, orange, and chiles; and tortellini
with orange and mint.
RESTAURANTS IN THE CENTRAL DISTRICT
€
Caffè Duomo
(Piazza Duomo, 29/30R;
%
055-211348; daily 9am-midnight)
serves a darn good pizza for only
€
6, set quickly on the plate and with no
coperto.
This is a great place to hang out and people-watch, with only shrubbery separat-
ing you from the crowds around the Duomo, 6m (20 ft.) away. Sure, it's touristy,
but you're a tourist--get over it.
€
(Via Ricasoli, 60R;
%
055-
289476)
is regarded as equal in artistic merit to Michelangelo's
David
down the
street. The caramel gelato is reason enough to immigrate to Italy. Be sure to order
it:
€
1.70 for a small, up to
€
7.30 for a mongo scoop; and don't forget to specify
the size before your order or you may be eating more than you planned.
555
The best of the best:
Gelateria Carabe
€
€
If you're tired of Italian food—hey, it happens!—I have three suggestions.
First, there's
Eby's Latin Bar
(Via dell'Oriulo, 5R;
%
055-240027),
where you'll
