Side Trips from Boston - Boston 2009 - page 273

stops include the nonprofit Toad Hall Bookstore, 47 Main St. ( & 978/546-7323;
www.toadhallbooks.org); Tidal Edge Gallery, 3 School St., off Main St. ( & 978/
546-3196; www.tidaledgegallery.com); and Willoughby's, 20 Main St. ( & 978/546-
9820 ), a women's clothing and accessories shop.
Two of my favorite stops are retro delights. Downtown, you can watch taffy being
made at Tuck's Candy Factory, 7 Dock Sq. ( & 800/569-2767 or 978/546-6352;
www.tuckscandy.com), a local landmark that turns 80 in 2009. Near the train station,
Crackerjacks, 27 Whistlestop Mall, off Railroad Avenue ( & 978/546-1616 ), is an
old-fashioned variety store with a great crafts department.
WHERE TO STAY
When Rockport is busy, it's very busy—and when it's not, it's practically empty. The
town's dozens of B&Bs fill in good weather and empty or even close in the winter.
Make summer reservations well in advance or cross your fingers and call the Cham-
ber of Commerce (p. 274) to ask about availability.
If you're traveling by train, call ahead to request pick-up at the Rockport station,
which most lodgings in town offer at no charge.
Captain's Bounty Motor Inn This modern, well-maintained motor inn is on the
water. In fact, it's almost in the water, and nearly as close to the center of town as to
the harbor. Each room in the three-story building overlooks the water and has its own
balcony and sliding glass door; all were renovated in 2006 and 2007. Rooms are spa-
cious and soundproofed, with good cross-ventilation but no air-conditioning. Each
has a microwave and fridge in case you want to eat some meals in; kitchenette units
are available. The best rooms are on the adults-only top floor. Although it's hardly
plush and the pricing structure is a bit peculiar (note the charge for children), you
can't beat the location. All rooms and decks are no-smoking.
1 Beach St., Rockport, MA 01966. & 978/546-9557. Fax [phone]. www.captainsbountymotorinn.com. 24
units. Late May-late Sept $160 double, $170 efficiency, $200 efficiency suite; spring and fall $115-$135 double,
$125-$140 efficiency, $145-$155 efficiency suite. Extra adult $10; $5 for each child. Minimum 2-night stay week-
ends, 3-night stay holiday weekends. MC, V. Closed Nov-Mar. Pets accepted; $10/night. First-floor units are wheel-
chair accessible. In room: TV/DVD, wireless Internet access, fridge.
Inn on Cove Hill (Caleb Norwood, Jr., House) This attractive Federal-style
inn was built in 1771 using the proceeds of pirates' gold found nearby. Although it's
just 2 blocks from the town wharf, the inn is set back from the road and has a delight-
ful hideaway feel. Innkeeper Betsy Eck overhauls one guest room each winter, deco-
rating them in exquisite period style; most have colonial furnishings and handmade
quilts, and some have canopy beds. Water views from the windows and good-size
decks at the back of the house are worth the climb to the third floor. The generous
breakfast is served in the dining room or, in good weather, in the pleasant garden.
Guests have the use of a phone in the living room. A harbor-view apartment across
the street is available for long-term (1 week or more) stays.
37 Mount Pleasant St., Rockport, MA 01966. & 888/546-2701 or 978/546-2701. Fax [phone]. www.innon
covehill.com. 7 units, some with shower only. $120-$175 double. Extra person $25. Rates include continental break-
fast. 2-night minimum mid-May to mid-Oct and most weekends. MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, no phone.
WHERE TO DINE
Because Rockport was “dry” until 2005, the dining scene isn't as sophisticated as
Gloucester's; if you're not ravenous, head there or to Woodman's of Essex (p. 266).