Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
North Shore Beaches
North of Boston, sandy beaches complement the predominantly rocky coast-
line. Things to know: The water is cold (optimistic locals say “refreshing”).
Parking can be scarce, especially on weekends, and pricey—the $25-per-car
barrier fell in 2007. If you can't set out early, wait until midafternoon and
hope that the people who arrived in the morning have had their fill. During
the summer, lifeguards are on duty from 9am to 5pm at larger public
beaches. Surfing is generally permitted outside of those hours. The beaches
listed here all have bathhouses and snack bars. Swimming or not, watch out
for greenhead flies in July and August. They don't sting—they take little
bites of flesh. Bring or buy insect repellent.
The best-known North Shore beach is Singing Beach , off Masconomo
Street in Manchester-by-the-Sea. Because it's accessible by public trans-
portation, it attracts the most diverse crowd—carless singles, local families,
and other beach bunnies of all ages. They walk 1 2 mile on Beach Street from
the train station to find sparkling sand and lively surf. Take the commuter
rail ( & 617/222-3200; www.mbta.com) from Boston's North Station.
Nearly as famous and popular is Crane Beach , off Argilla Road in
Ipswich, part of a 1,400-acre barrier beach reservation. Fragile dunes and a
white sand beach lead down to Ipswich Bay. The surf is calmer than that at
less sheltered Singing Beach, but it's still quite chilly. Pick up Argilla Road
south of Ipswich Center near the intersection of Routes 1A and 133 or take
the Cape Ann Transportation Authority's summer-only, weekend-only
Ipswich Essex Explorer bus service (www.ipswich-essexexplorer.com) from
the Ipswich train station. Also on Ipswich Bay is Gloucester's Wingaersheek
Beach , on Atlantic Street off Route 133. It has its own exit (no. 13) off
Route 128, about 15 minutes away on winding roads with low speed limits.
When you finally arrive, you'll find beautiful white sand, a glorious view,
and more dunes. Because these beaches are harder to get to, they attract
more locals—but also lots of day-tripping families. At the east end of Route
133, the beaches and snack bar in Gloucester's easily accessible Stage Fort
Park are popular local hangouts.
( & 978/290-9800; www.nedsgroceria.com), is a gourmet grocery that makes a great
pre-picnic stop.
Alchemy Café and Bistro CREATIVE AMERICAN An unusually varied
menu is usually a red flag, but not here. Friends who live in Gloucester tipped me off
to this funky-yet-elegant place on a little side street downtown. They rave about
inventive cocktails, creative flavors, and a vegetarian-friendly menu that offers some-
thing for everyone (up went the red flag). Could the French onion soup really be as
good as the pizza? Could a kitchen that produces mouthwatering meatloaf also crank
out perfect seared tuna? Do nachos even belong in the same restaurant as triple vanilla
crème brûlée? In a word, yes. Alchemy is a good destination for lunch (try a fish taco
or pulled-pork sandwich), cocktails and appetizers, or a special dinner. The service
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