Side Trips from Boston - Boston 2009 - page 265

Down by the Sea
On Stacy Boulevard west of downtown Gloucester is a reminder of the sea's
danger. Leonard Craske's bronze statue of the Gloucester Fisherman, known as
“The Man at the Wheel,” bears the inscription “They That Go Down to the Sea
in Ships 1623-1923” (the phrase is from the 107th Psalm). Several hundred
yards west is a memorial to the women and children who waited at home. As
you take in the glorious view, consider this: More than 10,000 fishermen lost
their lives during the city's first 300 years.

Moments

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE From Salem, follow Route 1A across the bridge to Beverly,
pick up Route 127, and take it through Manchester (near, not on, the water) to
Gloucester. From Boston, the quickest path is I-93 or Route 1 to Route 128, which
runs directly to Gloucester. Route 128 is mostly inland; to take in more scenery, leave
Route 128 at Manchester and continue to Gloucester on Route 127. There's street
parking (metered and not), and a free lot on the causeway to Rocky Neck.
The commuter rail ( & 617/222-3200; www.mbta.com) runs from Boston's
North Station. The trip takes about an hour; the round-trip fare is $15. The station is
across town from downtown, so allow time for getting to the waterfront area. The
Cape Ann Transportation Authority, or CATA ( & 978/283-7916; www.canntran.
com), runs buses from town to town on Cape Ann and operates special routes during
the summer.
VISITOR INFORMATION The Gloucester Tourism Office, City Hall, 9 Dale
Ave., Gloucester, MA 01930 ( & 800/649-6839 or 978/281-8865; www.gloucester
ma.com), operates the excellent Visitors Welcoming Center at Stage Fort Park, off
Route 127 at Route 133. It's open during the summer daily from 9am to 5pm; closed
in winter. The Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce, 33 Commercial St., Gloucester,
MA 01930 ( & 800/321-0133 or 978/283-1601; www.capeannvacations.com), is
open year-round (summer weekdays 8am-6pm, Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 10am-4pm;
winter weekdays 8am-5pm) and has a helpful staff. It also operates a seasonal infor-
mation booth on Rogers Street at Harbor Loop. Call or write for the chamber's four-
color map and brochure.
SPECIAL EVENTS Gloucester holds festivals and street fairs on weekends
throughout the summer. Check in advance to find out what's up when you'll be in
town. The best-known event is St. Peter's Fiesta, a colorful 4-day celebration at the
end of June. The Italian-American fishing colony's festival has more in common with
a carnival midway than a religious observation, but it's great fun. There are parades,
games, music, food, sporting events, and, on Sunday, the blessing of the fleet. The
Schooner Festival, a floating party with plenty of land-based revelry, takes place over
Labor Day weekend; the 2009 event is the 25th annual.
EXPLORING THE TOWN
Business isn't nearly what it once was, but fishing is still Gloucester's leading industry
(as your nose will tell you). Tourism is a very close second, and the city is an exception-
ally welcoming destination—residents seem genuinely happy to see out-of-towners and