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delectable flavors and textures evoke Middle Eastern, Indian, and Pakistani cuisine.
Many dishes are vegetarian, and meat is often one element of a dish rather than the
centerpiece. Every meal comes with delectable bread made fresh in a wood-fired brick
oven near the entrance. Service could be more attentive, but with food this good,
that's a minor quibble.
To start, you might try slightly sweet baked pumpkin topped with spicy ground
meat sauce—a great contrast of flavors and textures—or aushak, “Afghan ravioli” filled
with leeks or potatoes and buried under a sauce of either meat or split peas and car-
rots. Main courses include grilled meats, poultry, and fish, plus several versions of
what Americans would call stew. Kourma challow, an excellent mélange of lamb, pota-
toes, onion, tomatoes, and green beans, comes with flavorful, cumin-scented rice. For
dessert, don't miss the Afghan version of baklava.
143 First St. & 617/492-4646. www.helmandrestaurantcambridge.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses
$12-$20. AE, MC, V. Sun-Thurs 5-10pm; Fri-Sat 5-11pm. T: Green Line to Lechmere.
Redbones BARBECUE Geographically, this raucous restaurant is in
Somerville, but in spirit it's on a Southern back road where the sun is hot, the beer is
cold, and a slab of meat is done to a turn. Barbecued ribs (Memphis-, Texas-, and
Arkansas-style), smoked beef brisket, fried Louisiana catfish, and grilled chicken come
with appropriate side dishes such as coleslaw and beans. The chummy staff can help
you choose sweet, hot, mild, or vinegar sauce. The best non-barbecue dish is a starter
or dinner of succulent buffalo shrimp, swimming in hot sauce. Portions are large, so
pace yourself. You'll want to try the appetizers and sides—catfish “catfingers,” succo-
tash, corn pudding, and collard greens, just to name a few; if you're with enough other
people, the appetizer samplers are a good deal. The only less-than-tasty dish I've had
here was watery broccoli. The beer selection is huge, and there's valet parking for your
bike. Given a choice, sit upstairs—Underbones, downstairs, is a noisy bar.
55 Chester St. (off Elm St.), Somerville. & 617/628-2200. www.redbones.com. Reservations accepted only for par-
ties of 10 or more, Sun-Thurs before 7pm. Main courses $8-$19; sandwiches $6-$8; children's menu $5. AE, MC, V.
Mon-Thurs 11:30am-10:30pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-11pm; Sun 11am-10:30pm (brunch until 3pm); lunch Mon-Sat
until 4pm, Sun noon-4pm; late-night menu daily until 12:30am. T: Red Line to Davis.
Kids
Tu y Yo Mexican Fonda REGIONAL MEXICAN A large, colorful storefront near
the Tufts University campus, Tu y Yo specializes in authentic Mexican food in a style
that dates to the 16th century. Settlers lived and ate at fondas, or boarding houses, that
served home-style cooking. They ate well, too—I've never had a disappointing meal
here. The menu looks short, but many dishes are available with a choice of beef,
chicken, pork, sausage, shrimp, or fish, and in vegetarian versions. Weekly specials
expand your options further. To start, try sopes (fried disks of masa, or corn flour)
topped with beans, cheese, and onions, or cheese-filled plantain empanadas . Many
main-course descriptions include the dish's date and place of origin—owner Epi Guz-
man's family figures prominently—but even the options that have no pedigree are
delicious. I especially like spinach a la Carlos (with potatoes in garlic sauce) and chile
relleno en nogada (poblano with a flavorful ground-beef stuffing and creamy pome-
granate sauce). For the full experience, try one of the three versions of sangria and fin-
ish with cinnamon-infused coffee and unbelievable flan.
858 Broadway, Powderhouse Sq., Somerville. & 617/623-5411. www.tuyyomexicanfonda.com. Reservations rec-
ommended; accepted Sun-Thurs. Main courses $13-$19; brunch items $4-$11. MC, V. Mon-Thurs 5-10pm; Fri
4-11pm; Sat 10am-11pm (brunch until 2pm); Sun 10am-9pm (brunch until 2pm). T: Red Line to Davis, then a 10-
min. walk (follow College Ave. to the traffic circle and take sharp left).
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