Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
11:30am to 10pm Sunday through Wednesday, until 11pm Thursday through Satur-
day. In the winter, the weekday opening time is 5pm. Year-round, the bar serves food
until 12:30am. Other branches are at Logan Airport, in Terminal A ( & 617/569-
9695 ), and at the Mohegan Sun casino in Connecticut.
149 Alewife Brook Pkwy. & 617/520-9500. www.summershackrestaurant.com. Reservations accepted only for par-
ties of 8 or more. Main courses $8-$36 (most $25 or less); sandwiches $5-$15; lobster and specials market price. AE,
DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 11:30am-9:30pm (lunch menu until 5pm); Fri 11:30am-10:30pm (lunch menu until 5pm);
Sat noon-10:30pm; Sun noon-9pm. Free parking. T: Red Line to Alewife.
Oleana MEDITERRANEAN Both casual neighborhood place and culinary
travelogue, Oleana occupies a cozy space outside Inman Square and another one close
to my heart. The wonderful food and welcoming atmosphere make it one of the best
restaurants in the Boston area. The seasonal menu, which features cuisine typical of
and inspired by the Mediterranean—not just the usual suspects, either; Turkey and
Armenia figure prominently—relies on fresh ingredients and chef and co-owner Ana
(short for Oleana) Sortun's signature unusual flavors. Tempting aromas signal the
arrival of Moroccan-spiced grouper, which might land next to a plate of succulent
lemon chicken; poultry is often the dull option on even the most adventuresome
menu, but here it's a match for the most exotic dishes. Even better is spicy tuna, in a
peppery sauce that trades intense heat for intense flavor, a perfect match for the meaty
fish. Portions are generous, vegetarians are happy, and the dessert menu is heavy on
house-made ice cream. My only caveat is that at busy times, the servers tend to fall
behind. In warm weather, there's seating on the peaceful patio—and it can't be
reserved, so try to eat early.
134 Hampshire St., Inman Sq. & 617/661-0505. www.oleanarestaurant.com. Reservations recommended; not
accepted for patio. Main courses $22-$30; vegetarian tasting menu $42. AE, MC, V. Sun-Thurs 5:30-10pm; Fri-Sat
5:30-11pm. Free parking. T: Red Line to Central, then a 10-min. walk.
MODERATE
Baraka Café ALGERIAN/TUNISIAN/MEDITERRANEAN On a run-down
side street off Central Square, Baraka Café is a tiny, aromatic destination for adven-
turous diners. Flavorful, highly spiced (though not necessarily hot) food served in an
elaborately decorated dining room makes it a favorite with local foodies. They talk
about it as though it's a secret, but one look at the line that forms on weekend evenings
will tell you it's not. The drawbacks—no alcohol, cash only, tiny dining room, delib-
erate service—are insignificant when the food is this good. Start with house-made
breads and appetizers such as spicy merguez sausage and bedenjal mechoui (Algerian
baba ghanouj, more or less). Main courses include fantastic couscous, fork-tender
lamb chops, and eggplant stuffed with a tasty concoction of olives, spinach, scallions,
and two cheeses. Be sure to ask about daily specials, which show off the kitchen's con-
siderable abilities better than the limited regular menu. The signature beverage is
lemonade with rose petals—it tastes like soap to me, but its legions of fans strenuously
disagree.
80 1 2 Pearl St., Central Sq. & 617/868-3951. www.barakacafe.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $5-$9
at lunch, $9-$16 at dinner. No credit cards. Tues-Sat 11:30am-3pm; Tues-Sun 5:30-10pm. T: Red Line to Central.
The Helmand AFGHAN Newshounds will recognize Helmand as a region
and river in Afghanistan; Boston-area foodies know it as a restaurant that's both low-
profile and always crowded. Definitely make a reservation. The elegant setting belies
the reasonable prices at this spacious spot near the CambridgeSide Galleria mall. The
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