Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
space, which is littered with model sailboats (the name means “the sail”), but don't
mind the goofy theme: La Voile is a revelation. Start with a house-made terrine, or
surrender to the Gallic vibe and order bone marrow to smear on bread and dot with
sea salt. Now that you're in the mood, try
blanquette de veau
(veal in cream sauce,
which doesn't even begin to do it justice),
choucroute Alsacienne
(the bistro standby of
sausages over sauerkraut), or roasted chicken, which gets a goose-fat bath before going
in the oven. It's not perfect: One night as I deconstructed a lamb shank with just the
edge of my fork, I realized my companion was only picking at the bouillabaisse—it
comes in a gravy-like sauce, so watch out if you're expecting broth. The biggest draw-
back here is the somewhat scatterbrained service, but to be fair, I did my research
within a few months of La Voile's opening in late 2007. By the time you visit, the
kinks should be worked out, a new pastry chef (imported, of course) should be in the
kitchen, and lunch should be available.
261 Newbury St.
&
617/587-4200.
www.lavoileboston.net. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15-$43
(most less than $26). AE, MC, V. Tues-Sun 5:30-10:30pm. Valet parking available. T: Green Line to Copley.
MODERATE
Bangkok City
THAI In a neighborhood loaded with Thai restaurants, this is my
top choice. In the large dining room, the cordial staff and tempting aromas greet you
as you check out the exotic decor and lengthy menu. Appetizers are the usual
dumplings and satays, plus unique items like “Boston triangles” (tasty fried pork-and-
shrimp patties). Entrees range from mild pad Thai to blow-your-hair-back curries,
with many vegetarian options. The mix-and-match selection of proteins and sauces is
larger than at many other Thai restaurants, so you can let your palate's imagination
run wild. (Oh, great—now I want some tamarind duck.) Hot tip: The friend who
steered me to this place comes here just for the zesty salt-and-pepper squid.
167 Massachusetts Ave.
&
617/266-8884.
www.bkkcityboston.com. Reservations recommended before Symphony
and Pops performances. Main courses $7-$10 at lunch; $8-$17 at dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Sat
11:30am-3pm; Mon-Thurs 5-10pm; Fri 5-10:30pm; Sat 3-10:30pm; Sun 5-10pm. T: Green Line B, C, or D to Hynes
Convention Center.
Brasserie Jo
REGIONAL FRENCH One of the most discriminating diners
I know lit up like a marquee upon hearing that Boston has a branch of this Chicago
favorite. The food is classic—house-made pâtés, fresh baguettes, superb shellfish,
salade Niçoise, Alsatian onion tart,
choucroute,
coq au vin—but never boring. The
house beer, an Alsace-style draft, is a good accompaniment. The casual, all-day French
brasserie and bar fits well in this neighborhood, where shoppers can always use a break
but might not want a full meal. It's also a good bet before or after a Symphony or Pops
performance, and it's popular for business lunches. The noise level can be high when
the spacious room is full—have your tête-à-tête at a table near the bar.
Beat the Rush
If you plan to dine in a neighborhood that's near a performing arts or sports
venue, try to arrive after the performance or game begins so you don't get
caught in the frenzy. This is especially true in the Symphony Hall area and the
Theater District, as well as Harvard Square, the North End (when there's an
event at the Garden), and Kenmore Square (during baseball season).
Tips
