Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Where's the Beef?
Say “Boston,” think “seafood,” right? Apparently not. Branches of most of the
national steakhouse chains dot the city, and they're all at the top of their
game—a rising tide lifts all boats, as the seafood folks say.
The local favorites are
Grill 23 & Bar
(p. 123); the
Oak Room,
in the Fairmont
Copley Plaza Hotel, 138 St. James Ave. (
&
617/267-5300;
www.theoakroom.
com); and
Abe & Louie's,
793 Boylston St. (
&
617/536-6300;
www.abeand
louies.com). Devotees of the national chains can choose from the
Palm,
in the
Westin Copley Place Boston, 200 Dartmouth St. (
&
617/867-9292;
www.the
palm.com); the
Capital Grille,
359 Newbury St. (
&
617/262-8900;
www.the
capitalgrille.com);
Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar,
217 Stuart St. (
&
617/
292-0808;
www.flemingssteakhouse.com);
Morton's of Chicago
(www.mortons.
com), 1 Exeter Plaza, Boylston Street at Exeter Street (
&
617/266-5858
), and
World Trade Center East, 2 Seaport Lane (
&
617/526-0410
);
Ruth's Chris Steak
House
(
&
800/544-0808;
www.ruthschris.com), in Old City Hall, 45 School St.;
and
Smith & Wollensky,
101 Arlington St. (
&
617/432-1112;
www.smithand
wollensky.com).
Tips
The menu changes seasonally and offers about a dozen carefully considered entrees
noted for their emphasis on local ingredients and classic preparations. I find the famed
roast chicken with garlic, lemon, and parsley a bit tame, but the inventive seafood
dishes have no such problem; a memorable dish of peppered tuna with spicy cauli-
flower and fennel warmed a recent chilly night. For meat-eaters, cassoulet with pork,
duck confit, and garlic sausage is a gorgeously executed combination of flavors and
textures. The wine list is excellent, and there's seasonal outdoor seating.
553 Tremont St.
&
617/423-2700.
www.hamersleysbistro.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $26-
$42; tasting menu varies. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Fri 6-10pm; Sat 5:30-10:30pm; Sun 11am-2pm (brunch) and 5:30-
9:30pm. Closed Jan 1-12. Valet parking available. T: Orange Line to Back Bay.
Icarus
ECLECTIC This shamelessly romantic subterranean restaurant is per-
fect for everything from helping a friend heal a broken heart to celebrating a milestone
anniversary. Marble accents and dark-wood trim lend an elegant air to the two-level
dining room, and the service is efficient but not formal. Chef and co-owner Chris
Douglass uses choice local seafood, poultry, meats, and produce to create his imagina-
tive dishes. The menu changes regularly. You might start with braised exotic mush-
rooms atop polenta, succulent avocado soup, or the daily “pasta whim” (but make sure
the server quotes the price, which can be extravagant). Move on to seared duck breast
and roasted duck leg served with wild-rice pancakes, or a scrumptious seafood special
like sautéed black cod with local clams, white beans, and morels. Finally, save room
for dessert: The trio of seasonal fruit sorbets is one of the best non-chocolate desserts
I've ever tasted. And on Friday from 7 to 11pm, the bar schedules live jazz.
3 Appleton St.
&
617/426-1790.
www.icarusrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $28-$41.
AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 6-9:30pm; Fri 6-10pm; Sat 5:30-10pm; Sun 5:30-9pm. Valet parking available. T:
Green Line to Arlington or Orange Line to Back Bay.
