Where to Dine - Boston 2009 - page 117

Yum, Yum, Dim Sum
Many Chinatown restaurants offer dim sum, the traditional midday meal
featuring appetizer-style dishes. You'll see steamed buns (bao) filled with
pork or bean paste; meat, shrimp, and vegetable dumplings; sticky rice dot-
ted with sausage and vegetables; shrimp-stuffed eggplant; spring rolls;
sweets such as sesame balls and coconut gelatin; and more. Waitresses
wheel carts laden with tempting dishes to your table, and you order by
pointing (unless you know Chinese). The waitress then stamps your check
with the symbol of the dish, adding about $1 to $3 to your tab for each
selection. Unless you order a la carte items from the regular menu or the
steam table off to the side in most dining rooms, the total usually won't be
more than about $10 to $12 per person.
Dim sum varies from restaurant to restaurant, chef to chef, and even day
to day; if something looks familiar, don't be surprised if it's different from
what you're accustomed to and equally good. This is a great group activity,
especially on weekends. The selection is wider than on weekdays, the
turnover is faster (which means fresher food), and you'll often see three
generations of families sharing large tables. Even picky children can usually
find something they enjoy. If you don't eat pork and shrimp, be aware that
many, but not all, dishes include one or the other; calorie counters should
know that many dishes (again, not all) are fried.
Asked to name a favorite destination, I tend to favor the last place I
went, which at the moment is China Pearl , 9 Tyler St., 2nd floor ( & 617/
426-4338 ). Other good destinations are Chau Chow City , 83 Essex St.
( & 617/338-8158 ), Empire Garden Restaurant , also known as Emperor's
Garden, 690-698 Washington St., 2nd floor ( & 617/482-8898 ), and Hei La
Moon, 88 Beach St. ( & 617/338-8813 ).
tanks, both salt- and freshwater. Stick to seafood and you can't go wrong. Lunch spe-
cials are a great deal, but skip the chow fun, which quickly turns gelatinous. If you're
in town during Chinese New Year celebrations, phone ahead and request a multi-
course banquet for your group (about $25 a person).
45 Beach St. & 617/292-5166. Reservations accepted only for parties of 10 or more. Main courses $6-$24; lobster
and some fish dishes market price. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun-Thurs 10am-2:30am; Fri-Sat 10am-3:30am. T: Orange
Line to Chinatown.
Jacob Wirth Company GERMAN/AMERICAN In the heart of the Theater Dis-
trict, “Jake's” has been serving Bostonians since 1868—even before there were theaters
here. The wood floor and brass accents give the spacious room the feeling of a saloon,
and the menu incorporates traditional pub grub and more contemporary fare. The
hearty German specialties include Wiener schnitzel, mixed grills, bratwurst, knock-
wurst, and potato pancakes. Daily specials, comfort-food favorites like chicken pot
pie, and a large variety of sandwiches and salads round out the menu. Service at
lunchtime is snappy, but if you want to be on time for the theater, be ready to remind