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stuffed with ham and cheese are all terrific. Panini (sandwiches) are big in size and fla-
vor—the prosciutto, mozzarella, and tomato is sublime, and chicken parmigiana is
tender and filling. Originally a little takeout place, Artú now fills three storefronts, one
of which holds a marble-topped bar. It isn't a great place for quiet conversation, espe-
cially during dinner in the noisy main room, but do you really want to talk with your
mouth full?
There's another Artú on Beacon Hill at 89 Charles St. ( & 617/227-9023 ). It
keeps the same hours, except that it opens at noon on Sunday and 5pm on Monday.
6 Prince St. & 617/742-4336. www.artuboston.com. Reservations recommended at dinner. Main courses $8-$14
at lunch, $14-$23 at dinner; sandwiches $6-$8. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am-11pm; bar menu until 1am. T: Green or
Orange Line to Haymarket.
Billy Tse Restaurant CHINESE/PAN-ASIAN/SUSHI An Asian restaurant on
the edge of the Italian North End might seem incongruous, but this casual spot fits
right in. It serves excellent renditions of the usual dishes, and the kitchen also has a
flair for fresh seafood. The pan-Asian selections and sushi are as enjoyable as the Chi-
nese classics. Start with wonderful soup, sinfully good crab Rangoon, or fried calamari
with garlic and pepper. Main dishes range from nine kinds of fried rice to scallops with
garlic sauce to the signature “Ocean Three Treasures,” shrimp, calamari, and scallops
in a scrumptious sake sauce.
Be sure to ask about the daily specials—bitter Chinese broccoli, when it's available,
is deftly prepared. Most lunch specials, served until 4pm, include vegetable fried rice
or vegetable lo mein; I'm hooked on the udon noodles with shrimp in miso broth. You
can eat in the comfortable main dining room or near the bar, which has French doors
that open to the street. Although it's opposite a trolley stop, Billy Tse isn't especially
touristy—the neighbors obviously welcome a break from pizza and pasta.
240 Commercial St. & 617/227-9990. www.billytserestaurant.com. Reservations recommended at dinner on week-
ends. Main courses $8-$38 (most items less than $20); lunch specials $7-$9; sushi from $3.75. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.
Mon-Thurs 11:30am-11:30pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-11pm. Closed 1 week in Feb. T: Green or
Orange Line to Haymarket, or Blue Line to Aquarium.
Giacomo's Ristorante ITALIAN/SEAFOOD Fans of Giacomo's seem to have
adopted the U.S. Postal Service's motto: They brave snow, sleet, rain, and gloom of
night. The line forms early and grows long, especially on weekends. No reservations,
cash only, a tiny dining room with an open kitchen—what's the attraction? The food is
terrific, there's plenty of it, and the we're-all-in-this-together atmosphere certainly helps.
My dad is a New York ethnic-dining snob, and this is his favorite Boston restaurant.
The fried calamari appetizer, served with marinara sauce, is ultralight and crisp. You
can take the chef 's advice or put together your own main dish from the list of ingredi-
ents on a board on the wall. The best suggestion is salmon and sun-dried tomatoes in
tomato cream sauce over fettuccine; any dish with shrimp is delectable, too. Non-
seafood offerings such as butternut squash ravioli in mascarpone cheese sauce are equally
memorable. Service is friendly but incredibly swift, and lingering is not encouraged—
but unless you have a heart of stone, you won't want to take up a table when people are
standing outside waiting for your seat in sweltering heat or (no kidding) an ice storm.
355 Hanover St. & 617/523-9026. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $14-$18; specials market price. No
credit cards. Mon-Thurs 5-10pm; Fri-Sat 5-10:30pm; Sun 4-10pm. T: Green or Orange Line to Haymarket.
La Summa SOUTHERN ITALIAN Because La Summa isn't on the restaurant
rows of Hanover and Salem streets, it maintains a cozy neighborhood atmosphere.
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