NORTH WALES - England 2012 and the Best of Wales - page 734

the varieties, including salt smoked over local oak chippings, before you buy from the
small shop at Halen Môn's tiny headquarters. It's open Monday to Friday 10am to
4:30pm.
HOLY ISLAND
The largest town on Anglesey, Holyhead is not actually on Anglesey at all but on Holy
Island. However, the two islands have long been linked. Packet boats between Holy-
head and Ireland were recorded as far back as 1573—and the town is now a functional
place for those connecting with Dublin (see “To Ireland by Ferryboat,” above).
Holyhead Mountain is the highest point in Anglesey, at 216m (710 ft.), from
where you can see the Isle of Man, Ireland's Mourne Mountains, Snowdonia, and
even Cumbria on a clear day. The summit is the site of an ancient hill fort and the
ruins of an Irish settlement from the 2nd to the 4th century a.d. On the southwestern
side of the mountain is South Stack ( & 01407/763207 ), a lighthouse opened
in 1809. The towering surrounding cliffs are home to colonies of razorbill, guillemot,
and puffin, and gray seals breed in the caves below. The lighthouse is open Easter to
September, daily from 10:30am to 5:30pm, charging £4 for adults and £2 for chil-
dren—but, to reach it, be prepared to negotiate 400 steps there, and another 400
back. There's gentler, scenic coastal walking on the heathland nearby. Pack your
binoculars.
Where to Eat & Stay
For a scenic seaside pint and a smoked salmon sandwich, the best spot on the island
is The Ship , Red Wharf Bay ( & 01248/852568; www.shipinnredwharfbay.
co.uk), a whitewashed inn overlooking a sweeping bay 8 miles northwest of Beau-
maris. It's signposted off the A5025.
Neuadd Lwyd Isolation was never so splendid as at this converted stone
rectory stranded among the pastures of central Anglesey. Country house-style rooms
are an elegant slice of yesteryear, with plush furnishings and antique furniture in
keeping with the structure. It's open for bed and breakfast Wednesday through Sat-
urday night.
To complement the sense of escape and regal splendor, dinner is a refined, inti-
mate affair. Expect creative combinations such as carpaccio of Welsh Black beef with
shavings of local goat's cheese and nasturtium flowers. The restaurant is open for
dinner only Thursday to Saturday; a daily, no-choice, four-course menu costs £42 per
person. Reservations—as far ahead as you can manage for non-guests—are essential.
Penmynydd, Llanfair PG, Anglesey LL61 5BX (off the B4520, 2 1 ⁄ 2 miles north of Llanfair PG). www.neuadd
lwyd.co.uk. & 01248/715005. 4 units. £150-£200 double. Rates include Welsh breakfast. MC, V. Free
parking. Closed Dec-Jan. No children under 16. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV/DVD, hair dryer, no
phone.

19

Anglesey's Best Beaches

The tiny resort of Rhosneigr has an
unspoiled, sandy beach that's ideal for
low-tide rockpooling (foraging for
shells, crabs, and so forth). Strong cur-
rents make it a favorite haunt of water-

sports fanatics. For swimming,
especially with young children, you're
better off on the sheltered eastern
coast. The sands at Benllech and
Lligwy are our favorite family spots.