NORTH WALES - England 2012 and the Best of Wales - page 730

EDWARD'S iron RING
Although Edward I (1239-1307) was one
of medieval England's most powerful
kings, he had more than his share of
problems with the Celts. Trouble flared
up in the early 1280s when Llywelyn ap
Gruffudd (1223-82)—still the only native
prince a united Welsh nation has ever
had—occupied Caernarfon. The Welsh
appeared to have abandoned a tradition
of internecine fighting in order to mount
an effective insurrection against the
English. However, Llywelyn was
betrayed and killed in 1282 at the Battle
of Orewin Bridge, near Builth Wells, and
Edward moved quickly to eradicate his
line and to establish an “Iron Ring” of
castles designed to keep the locals in
check forever. Flint and Rhuddlan,
erected after lesser troubles in the

1270s, were strengthened. Progress at
Caernarfon (see below) was so rapid
that by 1284, Edward I's son, later
Edward II, was born inside its Eagle
Tower (a “native prince!” his father pro-
claimed). Coastal castles at Conwy
(p. 736) and Harlech (p. 724) were
designed to be equally impregnable,
and when the Welsh revolted again, in
1294, Edward ordered Caernarfon's walls
to be built even taller. The final link in
his imperious chain, Beaumaris (p. 733),
is the most elegant of royal master
mason James of St. George's construc-
tions. All have survived the centuries
remarkably intact, and represent the
pinnacle of medieval castle-building in
Europe.

19

Welsh Highland Railway RAILWAY Wales's most spectacular little
steam railway plies a course from regal Caernarfon right into the heart of Snowdo-
nia—and since early 2011, out the other side to Porthmadog, too. Historic carriages
creek, rattle, and cough their way along the Gwyrfai Valley and the shores of Llyn
Cwellyn before striking out into undiluted uplands suited only to sightseers, sheep,
and the occasional hardy drover. A few trains a day make the return journey, so if you
plan it right you can combine the train with some superlative hill walking: Get off at
Rhyd Ddu or Snowdon Ranger for major paths up Mount Snowdon (p. 722), or at
Beddgelert for the Aberglaslyn Gorge (p. 722), also the most memorable stretch of
the rail line.
St. Helens Rd., Caernarfon. & 01286/677018. www.festrail.co.uk. Round-trip tickets £10-£28; one child
travels free per adult. Apr-Oct 2-4 trains daily; see website for timetable.
Where to Eat & Stay
There's little reason to stay in Caernarfon itself—our favorite local accommodations
are outside town—but if you're resolved on a room in the center, the Celtic Royal
Hotel, Bangor Street, Caernarfon, Gwynedd LL55 1AY (www.celtic-royal.co.uk;
& 01286/674477 ), combines some character with an outstanding array of ameni-
ties, including a heated indoor pool and health club. Double rooms cost £130 per
night. For decent pub grub and a pint of local ale, your best bet is the Black Boy
Inn, Northgate Street ( & 01286/673604; www.black-boy-inn.com). Most main
courses cost around £10.
Rhiwafallen This cozy farmhouse-turned-restaurant with guest rooms is the
boutique best-bet within range of Caernarfon. Rooms are dressed vibrantly to reflect
contrasting themes; the best, Raspberry, has its own sundeck.