Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Association, and you can walk through the meadows, take the Thames Path, and
even go on a boat ride. There's a little cafe here facing the river, or you might
want to plan ahead and bring a picnic.
Get back onto the M3 and head southwest, turning onto the A303. If you're
lucky with the traffic you may get to
Stonehenge
(p. 328) in 90 minutes. The
monumental stone circle in the middle of Salisbury Plain is a must-see site, even
though, with main roads running past, it can be a disappointment. You walk
around the circle, at a distance, on paths, so while you'll be glad to have done
it, you won't spend as long here as you might have anticipated. You can get up
close to the stones at
Avebury
(p. 333), the biggest stone circle in the world,
about 25 miles north, and you can visit for free (although the museum is worth
paying for). You can get in until dusk, so it's worth trying for a sunset. There are
many country hotels near here, particularly in the picturesque town of
Marl-
borough
(p. 333) several miles away.
Day 2: West Wittering & Arundel
Head south past Salisbury, and southeast past Southampton and Portsmouth to
Chichester
(p. 274); you might do it in a couple of hours. This is a pretty
town—stop if you have time—but you're looking for signs to The Witterings,
then
West Wittering
(p. 277), several miles away. This is one of Britain's most
divine beaches, privately owned and splendidly maintained. The pure sands,
backed by dunes, stretch into the distance and there are views across to the
Isle
of Wight
(p. 306). This is a place that's as loved by adults as by children: There
are walks onto East Head, a sand dune spit that protects Chichester harbor.
There's a cafe, ice-cream shops, and the big grassy parking lot behind the dunes
doubles as a picnic and games area.
A few miles east of Chichester is
Arundel
(p. 274), an ancient Sussex town
on the River Arun. Have a wander (outside town there are walks through the
water meadows), but concentrate on
Arundel Castle
(p. 274). Take an hour or
so to explore the rooms filled with paintings by Old Masters, the walled gardens,
and grounds. You don't want to be too late leaving as you'll have surely booked
in at
Amberley Castle
(p. 278), a real castle several miles away that is now a
luxury hotel. Here you can explore among the medieval weaponry, the clipped
yew hedges, the gardens, lawns, and ponds knowing that at the end of the day
the portcullis comes down with you inside.
Day 3: Brighton
You won't want to leave Amberley, but less than half an hour away is Brighton,
the capital of the south coast, a city by the sea. You'll want to stay on the sea-
front, and the Hilton Metropole (p. 272) is a good choice, a grand hotel from
the past that's part of the resort's history. Check in, then hit the seafront; you've
got the day so you can relax. Head toward the pier; you can walk above the
beach, or you can drop down to beach level where under the arches there are
pubs, seafood bars, shops, cafes, and other seaside fun. Close together are the
Fishing Museum
(p. 267) and
Brighton Smokehouse
(p. 267), where you
can join the line for a hot mackerel sandwich. Head out onto the pier for the
views back onto the Regency seafront.
Opposite the pier is the
SeaLife Centre
(p. 269), the world's oldest aquar-
ium, and worth an hour's visit. A few minutes' walk away is the
Royal Pavilion,
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