Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SOUTHERN SNOWDONIA
Less visited than the heart of Snowdonia, the southern area of the park, where the
mountains almost fall into Cardigan Bay, is no less dramatic. Quaint Dolgellau is the
start of the
Mawddach Trail
, a 9-mile cycle-and-walking path that follows an
abandoned railway line along the most photogenic estuary in Wales, ending at the
3
⁄
4
-mile Barmouth railway bridge. The tiny town is also the jumping-off point for hik-
ing on
Cader Idris
; see “Snowdonia's Best Hikes,” above.
Harlech Castle
If you were selecting a castle to live in, you'd be hard-pressed
to find one with a view to match Edward I's great coastal pile. Built in the 1280s as
one of the English king's imperial fortresses (p. 730), and despite brief occupation
during Owain Glyndwˆ r's rebellion in 1404-09, its shell and gatehouse in particular
are remarkably intact.
Castle Sq., Harlech.
&
01766/780552.
www.cadw.wales.gov.uk. Admission £3.60 adults, £3.20 chil-
dren 5-15. Mar-Oct 9:30am-5pm (until 6pm July-Aug); Nov-Feb Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 11am-4pm.
Where to Eat & Stay
Among a glut of B&Bs in Betws-y-Coed, our favorite is
Oakfield House,
Pentre Du,
Betws-y-Coed LL24 0BY (www.oakfieldhousebandb.co.uk;
&
01690/710450
),
a handsome villa beside the A5 at the western fringe of the village. Completely refit-
ted in 2011, rooms are comfortable and spacious, with flat-screen TVs (and DVD
players) and free Wi-Fi. Doubles cost £70 per night.
Bryn Tyrch Inn
A renovation project completed in 2011 has upgraded this
cozy, informal roadside inn at the heart of Snowdonia to an ideal base for discerning
hikers. Rooms, generally compact to midsize, are decked out with comfortable, tradi-
tional beds and light-wood furniture that gives them a slightly luxurious, Scandina-
vian feel. There are walking trails from (literally) the front door.
The
restaurant
is known for casting a wide net of culinary influence. Daily spe-
cials might include a Mediterranean tapas sharing plate, a chickpea risotto, or a pan-
fried local sea bass with chive butter. Main courses range from £11 to £18.
Capel Curig, Conwy LL24 0EL. www.bryntyrchinn.co.uk.
&
01690/720223.
12 units. £75-£85 double.
Rates include Welsh breakfast. 2-night minimum stay at weekends (except Dec). MC, V. Free parking.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; bike rental.
In room:
TV, CD player, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).
Castle Cottage
This elegant cottage/restaurant in a quiet corner of Snow-
donia maintains consistently high standards. Rooms inside the petite, 400-year-old
cottage are decorated in stylish, contemporary creams, with exposed wood beams,
and come with the modern amenities you'd expect in a boutique hotel.
Eat-and-stay packages include dinner in the
award-winning restaurant,
which
is also open to non-guests (reservations are essential). There's a determined focus on
local ingredients—expect Welsh lamb and shellfish to appear on the menu—but with
an open mind to combinations from farther afield. A three-course dinner costs £38
per person.
Y Lech, Harlech, Gwynedd LL46 2YL. www.castlecottageharlech.co.uk.
&
01766/780479.
7 units.
£125-£168 double. Extra bed £15-£25. Rates include Welsh breakfast. MC, V. Limited free parking.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free).
In room:
TV/DVD, CD player/library, hair dryer, MP3 docking
station, no phone.
Tan-y-Foel
This converted 16th-century manor house is the best hotel
around Betws-y-Coed, opening onto a panoramic sweep of Conwy Valley. Vibrant
fabrics and modern paintings bring you into the 21st century, but the atmosphere is
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