Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
which gives it its name. It takes 20 to 30 minutes to walk from the Southgate parking
lot, or with various paths you can scramble down the cliffs. Then there's the river
(Pennard Pill) to cross at the start of the beach. There are stepping stones but once
the tide starts racing in they are of little use, and swimming is too dangerous other
than at low tide. This is a beach for those with a sense of adventure and who shun
shops and cafes. You just need to time your visit so the tide is on its way out. If it's in,
you can explore Pennard Warren, the sand dunes leading up to the unmanned ruins
of Pennard Castle. Tor Bay, separated from Three Cliffs by the Great Tor headland,
is another picturesque, sandy beach, with dunes filling the valley behind it. There's
always sand, even at high tide. The best access is from Penmaen village, where there
is parking and a 1-mile footpath.
Oxwich Bay lacks the magnificence of other Gower beaches, but is a lot easier to
access. There's plenty of parking, plus beach shops and cafes to complement the 2 1 2
miles of sand, safe swimming, and dunes to explore. Consequently it becomes
crowded. If you want peace, walk east along the beach to Nicholaston Burrows; it's
less crowded and the dunes are bigger. The ruins of Oxwich Castle are at Oxwich
Point, to the west. It's really a 16th-century mock fortified manor.
Port Eynon Bay is another family spot, with parking at Horton, minutes from the
beach. It was once smugglers' territory as you might guess from the Smugglers Gift
Shop and Smugglers Haunt Restaurant. In summer there is also a surf shop and fish-
and-chip shop. It has three beaches. The Sands, also known as Slade Bay, is farthest
east, has rock pools and firm sand, and can be reached over the cliffs from Oxwich
Bay. You can also walk 15 minutes across a field from the village of Slade, or via the
coastal path from Horton. The Cove, also a mix of sand and rocks, is nearer the
parking lot. To the far west the beach becomes rockier and near the Youth Hostel (see
“Where to Stay,” below) is Salt House Mere, a small, stony cove. Port Eynon also
has the Smuggler's Haunt and Ship pubs.
Rhossili Bay can be reached by a wonderful 4-mile cliff walk from Port
Eynon past Culver Hole, Paviland Cave, Mewslade, and Fall Bay, or you can park and
walk down the cliff steps. Either way, the view over the majestic 3-mile sandy beach
and the mighty Atlantic is quite something. Worm's Head is a rocky island (about a
half-mile long) that has been shaped by the sea; if the tide's just gone out you'll have
time to walk across the causeway. Rhossili is Gower's best surf beach, the power of
the waves proved by the skeletons of two wrecked ships. Walk the length of the beach
to Llangennith Burrows (big dunes), and at low tide you can walk out to Burry Holms,
a tiny island with the ruins of a medieval monastic settlement.
Away from the coast (close to Parkmill on the A4118) you'll find Parc le Breos
(Giant's Grave) burial chamber, a Stone Age legacy. The remains of at least four
people have been found here. A central passage and four chambers are in a cairn
about 21m (70 ft.) long. Parkmill, more a wooded valley than a village, is home to
Gower Heritage Centre ( &   01792/371206; www.gowerheritagecentre.co.uk), a
former mill, with animal park, museum, adventure playground, crafts workshops, and
tearooms (adults £5.50, children 3 and older £4.50). Nearby is the Gower Inn, a
stone pub with large garden, the Parc-Le-Breos Riding Centre, and several walks
in Forestry Commission woods.
Where to Eat
Maes-yr-Haf MODERN WELSH This is a modern delight, perfectly placed at
the end of the footpath down to Three Cliffs Bay (see above). Dishes such as a starter
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