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quality, authenticity, and portion sizes, it blows the fancier places in the vicinity out
of the water. The salt-and-pepper squid, stewed seafood udon, and Singapore vermi-
celli are particularly recommended; the chicken's feet are a more acquired taste. No
alcohol is served, but there's free green tea in abundance. You may have to wait, as
tables can't be booked; takeout is also available.
63-65 Stowell St., Newcastle. &   0191/233-1388. Main courses £4.50-£8.50. No credit cards. Daily
11:30am-11pm.
Little Saigon VIETNAMESE Ideally located for those going on to sample
some of Newcastle's notoriously boisterous nightlife, or just those who love to people-
watch, this is one of the best Asian restaurants in the Northeast, offering fresh-tast-
ing, authentic Vietnamese fare at moderate prices, plus a few more elaborate specials.
It's difficult to choose from the long menu of delicious-sounding treats, but sure-fire
hits are the starter of grilled prawns, shredded papaya, and fresh herbs with chili
vinaigrette, and the main course of simmered tamarind king prawn. Lunch, served to
5pm, is particularly good value.
6 Bigg Market, Newcastle. &   0191/233-0766. www.littlesaigon.uk.com. Reservations recommended.
Main courses £4.50-£17. MC, V. Sun-Wed 11am-11pm, Thurs-Sat noon-midnight.
Luigikhan's INDIAN/ITALIAN The perfect solution for those who can't
agree what kind of food they're in the mood for (or for parents who want something
a little spicier than their offspring does), this restaurant offers mainly authentic Pun-
jabi cuisine but also a smaller menu of Italian dishes and a few steaks and chicken
dishes within the new Best Western Ryokan hotel, about a mile outside the center.
The Indian food is stunning, so don't be tempted to play it safe unless you dislike
exotic flavors—and even then, the likes of Tawa lamb chops in tomatoes, yogurt, and
Asian fenugreek, with fresh coriander, bullet chili, and ginger, may convert you. The
Italian menu includes pizzas and familiar pasta dishes but also some slightly more
unusual combinations, such as pasta with tiger prawns and fresh asparagus. An inter-
esting decor of leather banquettes, exposed brickwork, and empty picture frames add
to the experience.
58 Westgate Rd., Newcastle. &   0191/272-4937. www.luigikhans.com. Reservations recommended.
MC, V. Main courses £3.95-£17. Daily 5:30-10:30pm.
Shopping
Newcastle's Eldon Square (www.eldon-square.co.uk), one of the U.K.'s biggest
city-center shopping complexes, was rather eclipsed by the arrival of Gateshead's
Metrocentre (www.metrocentre.uk.com), Europe's biggest indoor shopping and
leisure center. Combined, they make “NewcastleGateshead” a major shopping desti-
nation—and that's not including the boutiques and independent stores of High-
Bridge Street and Jesmond. Don't miss the beautifully preserved Edwardian Central
Arcade in Grainger Town (p. 663), home to the Tourist Information Centre (p. 662).
If you're in the area for the art and feel inspired to invest, The Biscuit Factory,
at 16 Stoddart St. ( &   0191/261-1103; www.thebiscuitfactory.com), is the U.K.'s
biggest store for original art, selling paintings, drawings, prints, sculpture, photogra-
phy, ceramics, jewelry, and glass by contemporary artists from around the globe. You
can also buy contemporary art by the likes of Damien Hirst and Jake & Dinos Chap-
man at Opus Art ( &   0191/232-7389; www.opus-art.com), in the suburb of Gos-
forth to the north of the center, open by appointment only.
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