THE LAKE DISTRICT - England 2012 and the Best of Wales - page 626

and only true “lake” in the Lake District, visited yearly by many species of northern
European migratory birds. You might also catch sight of ospreys at the viewpoint in
Dodd Woods, at the eastern end of the lake. Many visitors stop at Mirehouse
( & 01768/772287; www.mirehouse.com), a historic house and estate with wood-
land playgrounds and tearooms.
You can also take the A66 from Keswick to the coastal town of Maryport in
around 35 minutes, home to Senhouse Roman Museum ( & 01900/816168;
www.senhousemuseum.co.uk). South along the A595 is Whitehaven, once an impor-
tant port town. Follow its rise and fall at the intriguing Beacon Museum
( & 01946/592302; www.thebeacon-whitehaven.co.uk) in the renovated harbor
and at the Rum Story museum on Lowther Street ( & 01946/592933; www.rum
story.co.uk).

16

PENRITH & ULLSWATER
296 miles NW of London; 26 miles E of Keswick
Set in a region of gently rolling fields and dramatic mountain rises, Ullswater is a
favorite with those who enjoy spectacular natural beauty. A 9-mile expanse of water
stretching from Pooley Bridge to Patterdale, Ullswater is the second-largest lake in
the district and has always held a special attraction for artists and writers. It was on
its shores that William Wordsworth saw his “host of golden daffodils.” Aira Force
waterfall, near the National Trust's Gowbarrow, inspired both Wordsworth and
Coleridge with its beauty.
To the northeast of Ullswater is Penrith. Once capital of Cumbria, its name
comes from the Celtic-derived language Cumbric and possibly means “Ford by the
Hill.” The namesake hill is marked today by a red-sandstone beacon and tower. Today,
Penrith remains best known as a lively market town.
Essentials
GETTING THERE Virgin Trains operates about three trains daily from London's
Euston to Penrith Station, this region's main rail junction. A change of trains isn't
usually necessary. One-way tickets cost from £21. Once in Penrith, passengers usu-
ally take a taxi to Ullswater.
National Express ( & 0871/781-8181 ) operates one daily bus that leaves from
London's Victoria Coach Station at 11pm, arriving in Penrith at 5:30am. Stagecoach
operates two buses per day that stop at Penrith on their way between Carlisle and
Keswick. Passengers must take a taxi from Penrith to Ullswater.
By car, take the M1 out of London, getting on the M6 to Penrith. The trip should
take no more than 6 hours.
VISITOR INFORMATION Penrith Tourist Information Centre, Robinson's
School, Middlegate ( & 01768/867466; www.golakes.co.uk and www.visiteden.
co.uk), is open daily 10am to 4pm (closes Sun off season).
Exploring the Area
You can enjoy gentle walks to Aira Force, a spectacular waterfall set within National
Trust-owned woodland on the edge of Ullswater (on the A592). There are also popu-
lar hikes from up to Askham Fell and High Street, once a Roman trade route, and
to Helvellyn from Glenridding.