Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
smack in the middle of the Fosse Way (A429), one of the Roman trunk roads that cut
a swath through Britain, and roads fan out from here all over the region.
The town grew to prominence as a major sheep market, with alleyways known as
“tures” running between the buildings once used to herd flocks into the square to be
sold. The handsome market square is still there, but the sheep have gone, replaced
by cafes, pubs, and antique shops. These days the town's market roots are maintained
by the Stow Fair, a traditional bi-annual horse market attended by Romani people
(or “Travelers”) from all over the country. It's a colorful but controversial event, with
thousands descending on the area (many in traditional horse-drawn caravans), on the
nearest Thursdays to May 12 and October 24. Locals are divided about the disruption
it often causes, but the market can be fun to visit, with horse trading enlivened by
young Romani woman parading the town in their finest (and brightest) threads.
Essentials
GETTING THERE Several First Great Western trains run daily from London's
Paddington Station to Moreton-in-Marsh, a trip of 1 1 2 hours (£29). From Moreton-
in-Marsh, Pulham's ( &   01451/820369; www.pulhamscoaches.com) runs fre-
quent buses to Stow-on-the-Wold (20 min; £1.40.) and on to Bourton-on-the-Water
(10 min; £1.40.) and Cheltenham (50 min.).
If you're driving from Oxford, take the A40 west to the junction with the A424,
near Burford. Head northwest along the A424 to Stow-on-the-Wold.
VISITOR INFORMATION The privately run Tourist Information Centre
(Go-Stow) is at 12 Talbot Court and Sheep Street ( &   01451/870150; www.
go-stow.co.uk). It's usually open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5pm, and Sunday
11am to 4pm, with reduced hours in winter (Nov-Easter); it tends to opens at 11am
and closes between 3 and 5pm most days, but call ahead to confirm.
Exploring the Area
Other than browsing the shops and pubs, there's not a lot to see in the town itself
beyond the 15th-century Market Cross in the Market Square, the old wooden
stocks on the green (where offenders would be pelted with eggs), and the stately
Church of St. Edward, built between the 11th and the 15th centuries. The Royal-
ist Hotel, at the end of Digbeth Street, is said to be the oldest inn in England, with
parts of it dating back to the first incarnation of a.d. 947.
Chastleton House HISTORIC SITE Make time for this captivating Jaco-
bean country house, built between 1607 and 1612 by a prosperous Welsh wool
merchant. What makes this place different is the state of the interior; the Jones fam-
ily owned the property, little-changed until 1991. The National Trust has since pre-
served the time-warped flavor of the rooms, with no ropes or barriers, and the kitchen
ceiling is still blackened by soot—it's like stepping back into the 17th century. The
extensive gardens also include England's first ever croquet lawn (the laws of the game
were codified here in 1865).
Chastleton, Oxfordshire, 5 miles east of Stow-on-the-Wold via the A436. &   01494/755560. www.
nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-chastleton. Admission £8.25 adults, £3.85 children 5-15, free for children 4
and under, £20 family ticket. Apr-Sept Wed-Sat 1-5pm; Mar and Oct Wed-Sat 1-4pm. Admission by
timed ticket (180 available each day). Last admission 1 hr. before closing.
Cotswold Falconry Centre ZOO For a fascinating lesson on birds of prey,
stop by this family-friendly bird center, housing between 80 to 100 eagles, hawks, and
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