THE COTSWOLDS - England 2012 and the Best of Wales - page 439

THE GREAT COTSWOLD ramble
One of southern England's most inspir-
ing walks, the well-worn footpath known
as Warden's Way meanders for 13 miles
beside the edge of the swift-moving
River Eye, between Winchcombe and
Bourton-on-the-Water. If you're short of
time, try the section between the vil-
lages of Upper and Lower Slaughter (1
mile each way), with an optional exten-
sion to Bourton-on-the-Water (2 1 ⁄ 2
miles). From its well-marked beginning
in Upper Slaughter's central parking lot,
the path passes sheep grazing in mead-
ows, elegantly weathered houses
crafted from local honey-colored stone,
stately trees arching over ancient mill-
ponds, and footbridges that have

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endured centuries of pedestrian traffic
and rain.
Most visitors turn around at Lower
Slaughter, but Warden's Way continues
another 1 1 ⁄ 2 miles to Bourton-on-the-
Water by following the dead-straight
Fosse Way, route of an ancient Roman
road. Most of it, from Lower Slaughter
to Bourton-on-the-Water, is covered by
tarmac; it's closed to cars and therefore
ideal for walking or biking. Note: You're
legally required to close each of the
several gates that stretch across the
footpath.
You can follow this route in reverse,
but parking is more plentiful in Upper
Slaughter than in Lower Slaughter.

Victoria St., Bourton-on-the-Water, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL54 2BU. www.chesterhousehotel.
com. & 01451/820286. Fax [phone] units. £90-£125 double; £125-£155 family room. Rates
include continental or English breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Jan. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant;
bar; babysitting. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).
Cranbourne House This is the best B&B in town, a short walk from the
center. Rooms are richly equipped and decorated, mainly with adorable French
period furnishings dating from the 1890s. Breakfasts here are particularly good and
worth lingering over; expect locally sourced full English fry-ups, oatmeal, fresh fruit,
jams, smoked trout, and black pudding (blood sausage). Homemade cakes, tea, cof-
fee, and hot chocolate are laid on in the afternoon.
Moore Rd., Bourton-on-the-Water, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL54 2AZ. www.cranbournehouse
bandb.co.uk. & 01451/821883. Fax [phone] units. £130 double. Rate includes English break-
fast. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Wi-Fi in public areas (free). In room: TV, hair dryer.
Dial House Hotel The top hotel in town is also the oldest structure and the
best place to eat. The house dates back to 1698 and is set in .6 hectares (1 1 ⁄ 2 acres)
of manicured gardens, overlooking the River Windrush. Each room has individual
character, and some boast four-poster beds. Two of the rooms, as charming as those
in the main building, are in a converted coach house. Log fires burn on chilly nights,
and there are two small dining rooms, one with an inglenook fireplace. The restau-
rant features artfully crafted seasonal dinner menus, playful twists on English,
French, and continental classics.
The Chestnuts, High St., Bourton-on-the-Water, Gloucestershire GL54 2AN. www.dialhousehotel.com.
& 01451/822244. Fax [phone] units. £135-£225 double; £205-£245 suite. Rates include Eng-
lish breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer,
Wi-Fi (free).
Old Manse Hotel An architectural gem, the Old Manse sits in the center
of town by the river. Built of Cotswold stone in 1748, with chimneys, dormers, and