DEVON - England 2012 and the Best of Wales - page 375

Concerts, opera, dance, and film can be found year-round at the Exeter Phoenix,
Bradninch Place, Gandy Street ( & 01392/667080; www.exeterphoenix.org.uk),
and Exeter University's Northcott Theatre, Stocker Road ( & 01392/493493;
www.exeternorthcott.co.uk), which is also home to a professional theatre company.
The Well House Tavern, Cathedral Close ( & 01392/223611 ), is a friendly,
historic place to stop for a pint or a pub meal. The building dates to the 14th century,
and the atmosphere is laid-back and welcoming.
Perched at the edge of the canal, Double Locks, Canal Banks ( & 01392/256947;
www.doublelocks.co.uk), welcomes a lively crowd. It features live music (jazz, rock,
and blues) with no cover charge, and you can get traditional pub grub to go with your
pint. In the summer, you can sit outside and watch the boats go by.
Where to Stay
EXPENSIVE
ABode Exeter at the Royal Clarence Hotel A short walk from the rail sta-
tion and just steps from the cathedral, the ABode Exeter is one of the city's most
talked about hotels, with a cutting-edge restaurant, a gorgeous tavern, and coolly
modern rooms. The hotel building dates to the 18th century, but inside, clever design
has combined history with modernity and comfort. Rooms have a contemporary feel,
with handmade, Vi-Spring beds, monsoon showers, and personal DVD players.
Michelin-starred chef Michael Caines runs the hotel's acclaimed restaurant
(p. 373), and the Well House Tavern, a historic pub, offers more casual dining.
Cathedral Yard, Exeter, Devon EX1 1HD. www.abodehotels.co.uk/exeter. & 01392/319955. Fax
01392/439423. 53 units. £120-£175 double; £230-£330 suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking £9. Amenities:
Restaurant (Michael Caines, p. 373); cafe; 2 bars (including Well House Tavern; see above); babysitting;
exercise room; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).
Buckerell Lodge Hotel Resembling a gracious country manor house, this
picture-perfect hotel, set amid sprawling grounds and gardens, is a popular wedding
location. The building may be Victorian, but bedrooms are contemporary and spa-
cious, done up in neutral tones of taupe with splashes of bright color. The best (most-
expensive) rooms are in the main house; the others, though cheaper, are in a more
sterile modern addition. The hotel restaurant, Veitch's, is formal and a little old-
fashioned, serving French-influenced cuisine. There's also a more relaxed bar where
you can order light meals.
Topsham Rd., Exeter, Devon EX2 4SQ. www.akkeronhotels.com. & 0844/855-9112. Fax [phone].
54 units. £115-£130 double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Take the B3182 1 mile southeast, off junction 30
of the M5. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).
MODERATE
Gipsy Hill Hotel This late-Victorian country estate surrounded by gorgeous
gardens is on the eastern fringe of the city—just far enough away to feel bucolic.
Rooms are comfortable, although not at all fancy. One has a (slightly creaky) four-
poster bed squeezed into a space so small you can barely get around it, which is
odd given that some other rooms are much larger. Like the rooms, the restaurant
is a bit old-fashioned, but it's handy if you don't feel like going into town, and in
the summer you can dine outside. Generally, the place could use some updating
(carpets are thin, curtains are fussy, walls are oddly unadorned), but the grounds
are delightful, the staff is helpful, and the price is reasonable. They'll even let you
bring your dog.

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