Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
north to escape Viking sea raids. Only temporary church buildings stood on the
site until 1112, when William Warelwast, a nephew of William the Conqueror,
was given the district and began building a church in the Norman style. The twin
Norman towers he designed still stand, but the building was not completed until
1400, when styles had changed, so most of the building is a spectacular concoc-
tion of Gothic architecture, with a remarkable vaulted ceiling that's 20m (66 ft.)
tall and 90m (300 ft.) long. The structure is not complete—sadly, the cloisters
were destroyed by Oliver Cromwell's forces, and a German bomb finished off the
twin chapels of St. James and St. Thomas in 1942. Its sheer size is moving, and
the early carving work is delightful. Its famous choir sings Evensong Monday to
Friday at 5:30pm and again at 3pm on Saturday and Sunday.
1 The Cloisters.
&
01392/285983.
www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk. Admission £5 adults, £3 children 15
and under. Open Mon-Sat 9am-4:45pm.
Exeter Guildhall
ARCHITECTURE This grand old building on Exeter's main
shopping street has been at the center of life here for more than 600 years. Outside,
the architecture is a mishmash of Tudor and faux Tudor. The elaborate frontage is
faux—it was added in the 1590s (and was described by a wit at the time as “just as
picturesque as it is barbarous”). The interior was similarly “restored” by the Victori-
ans. But much did survive their well-intended meddling, including the medieval
oak-paneled hall and the original beamed ceilings.
High St.
&
01392/665500.
Free admission. Mon and Wed-Fri 10:30am-1pm. Hours change frequently;
call before visiting.
Powderham Castle
CASTLE Originally built in the late 14th century (but
much altered in the 19th century), this is a grand, Gothic-influenced structure with
sprawling grounds. Today it's still in the hands of the descendants of its original own-
ers, the Countess and Earl of Devon. Inside, the decor is traditional, with family
portraits and fine furniture, some 17th-century tapestries, and a chair used by Wil-
liam III for his first council of state at Newton Abbot. The chapel dates from the 15th
century, with hand-hewn roof timbers and carved pew ends. If the castle looks
strangely familiar, it might be because it featured in the film
The
Remains of the Day.
Powderham, Kenton.
&
01626/890243.
www.powderham.co.uk. Admission £9.80 adults, £8.80
seniors, £7.80 children 5-14, £28 family ticket, free for children 4 and under. Sun-Fri 11am-4:30pm.
Closed Nov-Mar. Take the A379 Dawlish Rd. 8 miles south of Exeter; the castle is signposted.
Where to Eat
Michael Caines Restaurant at ABode Exeter
FRENCH This swanky
restaurant in the ABode Hotel (see below), at the edge of Cathedral Green, is where
Exeter goes for important business lunches, celebratory family dinners, and critical
first dates. Executive Chef Michael Caines is double Michelin starred, and one meal
9
A Relic from William the Conqueror
At the top of Castle Street, the impres-
sive
Norman Gatehouse
is actually one of
the few surviving fragments of William
the Conqueror's castle. The gatehouse
and walls are all that survive, but you can
enjoy the panoramic view and gardens
while contemplating the longevity of the
stone around you.
