Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
St. Vincent House
This charming house was built by a master mariner in 1834
and has since been sensitively converted. Guest rooms are small but sunny, with tiny
bathrooms and comfortable beds. The house itself is lovely. Many of the original
features of the seaman's home, including a beautiful Regency spiral staircase, have
been retained. The Belgian owner, Jean-Paul Saltpetier, is a gourmet chef, and break-
fasts are wonderfully varied (for England) with options like Belgian waffles, vegetar-
ian cooked breakfast, and smoked salmon, alongside the inevitable English breakfast.
New guests are welcomed with a glass of sherry to help them settle in.
Castle Hill, Lynton, Devon EX35 6JA. www.st-vincent-hotel.co.uk.
&
01598/752244.
Fax 01598/752244.
7 units. £74-£80 double. No credit cards. Free parking. Closed Nov-Easter.
Amenities:
Restaurant;
lounge.
In room:
TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).
Vanilla Pod
BRITISH This relaxed and friendly eatery is a great option in Lynton.
During the day it's a coffee bar, where you can linger over a pastry or a sandwich and
latte. At night it's a candle-lit restaurant with a simple menu that emphasizes fresh
local meats, fish, and produce. The menu changes regularly but can include pan-fried
sea bass, caught that morning, Bray Valley trout, or Exmoor venison. There are plenty
of options for vegetarians as well, and the desserts are irresistible.
10-12 Queen St.
&
01598/753706.
Sandwiches and light lunches £3.50-£5; main courses (dinner)
£7-£12. MC, V. Daily 10am-9pm (often later in summer).
9
CLOVELLY
240 miles SW of London; 11 miles SW of Bideford
The lovely village of Clovelly, a short drive south along the coastal road from West-
ward Ho!, spreads across one side of a steep hill in a way that all but forbids you to
pass without stopping. This is a
no-car zone,
as the precipitous and narrow cobble-
stone High Street makes driving virtually impossible. Instead, you park at the top
and make the trip down on foot; everybody does the same—even supplies for the
village stores are still carried down on sleds pulled by donkeys. It's worth the effort
because every step provides views of tiny cottages, with their terraces of flowers lin-
ing the main street.
Somewhat controversially, you have to pay an admission charge just to enter the
village. It's not particularly expensive, and certainly worth the price considering it also
covers parking and entry to two (tiny)
museums
(see below), but there is some dis-
pute about the legality of charging visitors this fee. Still, given that the money goes
toward the upkeep of this historic village, few people object.
Once you've paid the toll, you won't find many sights within town, but that's really
not the point: The major attraction of Clovelly, you might say, is Clovelly itself. Vic-
torian author Charles Kingsley (who lived here) once said, “It is as if the place had
stood still while all the world had been rushing and rumbling past it.”
After you've worked your way all the way down to the quayside, the climb back to
the top can look intimidating. If it's too much for you, do what many other visitors do
and, behind the Red Lion Inn, catch a Land Rover. For £2 per person, it will take you
up via a back road. In summer, the wait for the ride can get rather long, though.
Insider tip:
To avoid the tourist crowds in the summer, stay out of Clovelly
from around 11am until 4pm. When the midday crowds are filling the town, visit
nearby villages such as Bucks Mills (3 miles to the east) and Hartland Quay (4
miles to the west).
