Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Exploring the Area
The main attractions of Lynton and Lynmouth are the towns themselves. Seemingly
hewn from the cliffside in stone and slate, they have, over time, become part of the
topography. On rainy days, Lynmouth, at the top of the cliff, seems to disappear in
mist. The two are linked by an extraordinary water-powered train system, the Lynton
& Lynmouth Cliff Railway ( &   01598/753486; www.cliffrailwaylynton.co.uk).
The century-old train uses no electricity. Instead, the railway employs a complicated
network of cables and pulleys, and the water tanks pull the train cars up approxi-
mately 150m (500 ft.). The train carries about 40 passengers at a time for £2.85
adults, £1.85 children 4-13. Trains depart daily from March to October, at 2- to
5-minute intervals.
If you'd prefer, you can hike between the two towns, although be aware the climb
is steep.
This area is popular with hikers—or “ramblers”—drawn by the numerous trails and
the striking countryside. A popular short walk is known as the North Walk, a 1-mile
trail leading to the Valley of the Rocks . This grouping of rugged rock formations
rises from a grass-covered valley to peaks of bare sandstone and shale, believed to
have been carved during the Ice Age. The centerpiece of the formation is Castle
Rock, known for its resident herd of wild goats.
To learn more about the best hikes in the area, go to the tourist office (see above),
where you can pick up maps, guides, and other information. A good option is the
book Walking in North Devon, which contains numerous tried and tested walks in
the region.
From Lynton it's a 12-mile drive north on the A39 to another historic coastal
town—the village of Porlock —composed of a tiny cluster of thatched cottages in a
peaceful estuary that seems straight out of Middle Earth. The poet Coleridge lived
here while writing Kubla Khan.
About a 20-minute drive south of Lynton is the faded Edwardian town of Ilfra-
combe, a traditional English seaside village that's virtually preserved in aspic. Its rock
candy shops, seaside promenade, and fish-and-chips eateries are straight out of a
film. Sea-battered but not uncharming, Ilfracombe is well located for walks around
the headland and for days spent at its beaches, which are reached through tunnels
carved through the rock (follow signs).
A 10-minute drive south down the coast from Ilfracombe brings you to the small
village of Croyde, and the surfing mecca of Croyde's Bay. This isolated area of rug-
ged coastline has miles of sandy beach, much of it pounded by thunderous surf—per-
fect for surfers, but not so great for swimmers. However, about a mile away, around
the rocky headland of Baggy Point, are the beaches of Saunton Sands and
Braunton Burrows, which provide expansive stretches of sand dunes to explore,
and quieter water can be found in sheltered coves on either side of Croyde.
South of Croyde is the quixotically named Westward Ho! , named after the topic
by the author Charles Kingsley, who lived in nearby Bideford. When Kingsley's novel
became a huge hit in 1855, a local developer smelled opportunity and came up with
the idea of building a planned holiday village with the same name. The town is
charming enough, but the main draw is its Blue Flag Beach, which stretches for
miles of flat, soft sand and rolling surf.
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